What's the method for obtaining museum-worthy gowns by famous individuals?
During the Grammys in February, Miley Cyrus, Laverne Cox, and Olivia Rodrigo showed up in vintage Bob Mackie, Comme des Garcons, and Versace, respectively. With a headline such as "Big stars in old clothes was the trend of the night," the New York Times' fashion critic Vanessa Friedman described the event. The Oscars in March were another location for this throwback fashion trend. Cardi B appeared at the Vanity Fair after-party with a black embellished lace Versace dress from Spring-Summer 2003, while Margot Robbie and Jennifer Lawrence wore Mugler and Givenchy, both dated 1996.
Prior to that, celebrities have been into vintage long before 2024. Cardi B wore Mugler's 1996 "Venus" shell dress at the 2019 Grammys, and Kim Kardashian showed up at the Met in Marilyn Monroe's "Happy Birthday, Mr. President," museum-exhibited gown in 2022.
At the recent Met Gala, Emily Ratajkowski wore a 2001 Versace naked dress, while Zendaya changed into a black taffeta Givenchy gown from the year she was born. It was Kendall Jenner made the biggest statement wearing a vintage 1999 Givenchy look exclusively at the event as per the brand.
“At the (2024) Oscars, I think we probably saw more people wear archival vintage than ever before.” said Erin Walsh, a celebrity stylist who has worked with Anne Hathaway, Selena Gomez, and Sarah Jessica Parker, in an interview with CNN. "It became the future (of fashion) instantly this year."
One label, specifically, is on the cutting edge of the archival trend. Mugler – the high-end French fashion house that dressed Zendaya in a full metal robot suit from 1995 for the London premiere of "Dune: Part Two." The look received wide attention, making headlines across the internet and causing a $152 million media impact value for the brand. This stunt resulted from a year's worth of planning.
"Every year we get countless requests to wear the (Fall-Winter 1997 Haute Couture) Chimera dress or the robot suit," said Adrian Corsin, managing director of Mugler, in a video call with CNN. (The Chimera dress is regarded as one of the costliest couture creations.) "But it's really about finding the right moment for us. That was finally the right moment."
Once Mugler agreed to the request from Zendaya's stylist and long-time collaborator Law Roach, the logistics could begin. What should she wear underneath? The original flesh-toned bodysuit was nowhere to be found, so they needed to produce a new one. How would she get to the venue? The suit doesn't allow bending. Could she even walk in it? Originally designed for a short catwalk strut, Zendaya had to climb the stairs. But the most important question was: Would she even fit?
"That was the main question," said Marion Bourdée, Mugler's head of archives. Any major alterations were off the table; it would either work or not. "It hadn't been worn for years and years, and Zendaya's proportions were quite different from the original model. But at the first fitting, we were all quite moved, because it fit like a glove."
The Secret Archive
Before the suit was reused, it resided in Mugler's archives – a secluded place concealed in the center of France with more than 6,000 priceless pieces. "It's very hidden, you wouldn't expect it to be there from the outside," said Bourdée. "Nobody has access to that place. Just Adrian and me." In this secret room, the suit resided in a custom box, with the inside contoured to the shape of each segment like a gun case. "It kind of floats there, in this coffin box," said Corsin.
Although interest in vintage fashion is rising among celebrities, not everyone is qualified to handle these items. "Unfortunately, there's a lot of misconception about what a fashion archivist really is," said Julie Ann Clauss, owner of The Wardrobe – a private LA-based storage service used by brands and individuals alike – in a video call. "I have a museum studies degree, and all professional archivists do."
Clauss, who additionally works as an archivist for Tom Ford, mentioned she was needed to undertake advanced chemistry courses, as well as learn a second language, before being qualified for her job. "You must comprehend the factors that may lead to clothing degradation if materials such as glass beads aren't stored accurately, or the possible consequences of chemical reactions between the pieces and their environment, or even the way they're handled."
Fashion storage spaces, like the one housing the 1995 Mugler robot suit, go beyond simply being large closets filled with racks of clothing. Clauss' museum-grade facility in LA is responsible for preserving collections for numerous clients such as Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, musicians, and actors. "It's very clean, typically very white," she stated. "Dust attracts pests. Moths don't eat clothes, they eat protein and that's what they're seeking on your sweater... It's the hair fibers, proteinaceous things."
From the temperature to the humidity, everything meticulously controlled to hinder the decay process is done to perfection. Even the light must be filtered. "We don't have the lights on unnecessarily," said Clauss. "Unnecessary exposure causes fibers to degrade and eventually break and tear."
Fashion's mad dash
Instead of these one-of-a-kind pieces being so fragile, how do celebrities manage to get their hands on them?
"I don't lend out," said Clauss. "However, I frequently receive calls from stylists who think I do. It's up to my individual clients. I redirect (the request) to the brand's public relations team who will deliberate the decision."
The opportunity to borrow heritage items from the brands is often a hierarchical question. “Requests have increased a lot,” said Bourdée at Mugler. “Since Cardi, and even more after Kylie. But we want the use of archives to stay rare.” Jenner, who has been granted three vintage looks from the label, sent a team to the Brooklyn Museum’s 2022 exhibition “Thierry Mugler: Couturissime” before it was even completed to pick out her dress options. “We allowed her stylists to come to the museum while we were still arranging the exhibits on the mannequins, and they chose pieces that they would want to try on Kylie,” Bourdée said.
However, not everyone views this degree of access with awe. In 2022, when Kim Kardashian copied Marilyn Monroe's 1962 costume from Ripley's Believe It Or Not!, many on social media believed the dress had been damaged – a claim influenced by images of missing crystals and loose threads. (A few months later, Ripley's issued a statement stating the attire had incurred no damage during the weeks following the 2016 auction.) The International Council of Museums suggested that historical items shouldn't be lent to anyone, public or private figures. Mugler, on the other hand, considers the risk worthwhile. "If they're always stored away in boxes, people won't be able to enjoy them,” explained Corsin. “And even in exhibitions, pieces can be damaged,” added Bourdée.
There are other alternatives, notes Erin Walsh, for those who cannot visit elite archives. “People make it appear so mysterious to obtain premium vintage,” she said. “Vintage is incredibly accessible. I've been using stores like Shrimpton Couture, New York Vintage, or Decades since the outset of my career 15 years ago.”
And while it's tempting to attribute this recent fascination with vintage to a renewed appreciation for fashion history, Walsh thinks there is a more practical explanation. “There weren't enough samples (of current designer pieces),” she said. “It appears as though everyone is in a panic to complete something swiftly, or there is an unavailability of pieces that can be created.”
The allure and exclusivity of an archival pull can give a brand and its wearer a significant advantage, as proven by Kendall Jenner's vintage Givenchy gown making headlines at the Met Gala. "It's really a special moment," Jenner shared with Vogue that night. "I feel incredibly honored they're letting me wear it." The more prized the clothing item, the higher the status of the outfit. Could anything be off-limits for loaning, even for celebrities like Zendaya or the Jenners? "We'll never say never," responded Corsin.
For example, could a classic piece like the Chimera, one of the most sought-after fashion artifacts of the 20th century, ever be lent out? "For now, no," says Corsin.
Read also:
- Caught up in the present: the end of "The Crown"
- Through New Year's Eve with TV shows
- What's next for the series hits?
- Which shows will be on?
The fashion critic Vanessa Friedman noted that "Big stars in old clothes was the trend of the night" during the 2024 Grammy Awards, showcasing vintage Bob Mackie, Comme des Garcons, and Versace gowns by Miley Cyrus, Laverne Cox, and Olivia Rodrigo, respectively. Erin Walsh, a celebrity stylist, mentioned in an interview with CNN that "At the (2024) Oscars, I think we probably saw more people wear archival vintage than ever before."
Source: edition.cnn.com
