Original or fake: How to recognize a genuine Rolex

Luxury watches - Original or fake: How to recognize a genuine Rolex - and where to buy it

If you search for a Rolex on the Internet, sooner or later you will come across fakes. Unfortunately, these are much easier to buy than the originals. You can sometimes wait many years for a new Rolex. High-quality "replica watches" are a real problem - because unlike watches from beach vendors, even the trained eye finds it extremely difficult to distinguish a copy from the original. At the latest on the second-hand market, this takes its toll. After all, how are you supposed to know whether the watch you want to buy is genuine? This guide should help, at least with current models - in four stages.

The way to a genuine Rolex: The right place to buy

You can save yourself a lot of pain if you choose the right marketplace when buying a pre-owned Rolex. It goes without saying that the Swiss manufacturer recommends buying a watch exclusively from a jeweler. For new watches, however, you can safely postpone this, as the stock is empty(find out more here). For some time now, however, Rolex has been offering certified second-hand watches - initially only through Bucherer. There is no greater security. However, the prices for watches from the "Rolex Certified Pre-Owned" program (CPO) are very high (find outmore here).

Trading platforms such as Chrono24 or Chronext can be somewhat cheaper. Chrono24 is a kind of dealer directory for commercial sellers or private individuals. A little research is therefore necessary when buying a watch, as not every dealer is automatically reputable. When buying via Chrono24, pay attention to ratings, the location and the "Chrono24 Trusted Seller" label if you want to be on the safe side.

Chronext, on the other hand, deals with the watches itself, checks the vast majority of watches itself and offers a guarantee. This is very safe, but expensive when you look at the prices. You can also buy a watch quite safely in the specialist forum "RLX", because counterfeits would be noticed immediately by the expert community and removed from the platform.

In fact, the auction house Ebay is also an option for a purchase, as the platform offers an authenticity check after the purchase. However, this does not apply to every advertisement, which is why you should pay close attention to whether this service is part of your desired watch. If not, the trade on Ebay differs only marginally from the offers on Ebay classifieds, probably the cheapest but most dangerous place to go for luxury watches.

Buying on Ebay classifieds is absolutely possible, but the number of fakes is highest here. Therefore, pay close attention to the seller, look for possible subsidiaries and save the advertisement and its pictures to be on the safe side - should there be any problems. The basic rule is: "Buy the seller, not the watch". This means that you should not only take a close look at the Rolex, but also at the person offering it.

Another big red flag are low prices from private individuals who claim not to know the value of the watch. Quite honestly, anyone who can advertise a Rolex is also in a position to search for its price. There are no bargains!

The Rolex in your hand: obvious fakes

The good news is that even laypeople can recognize a bad fake immediately. If the second hand does not glide across the dial but clearly jumps from second to second, keep your distance. The only exception is if you want to buy an Oysterquartz - these are the only Rolex watches whose movement is actually battery-operated and in which the hand does not move smoothly.

The next step is to check whether the rehaut, i.e. the raised edge around the dial, is engraved and how precisely it is worked. The ring is only blank on older models; newer models have a rather intrusive "ROLEXROLEXROLEX" lettering, interrupted by a crown at 12 o'clock and separated by the serial number at 6 o'clock. This serial number is also important and should appear exactly the same on the watch's papers. You should refrain from buying watches without papers unless you are absolutely sure. Attention: The papers of a Rolex change irregularly. Make sure that the warranty card matches the year of manufacture. "Perforated papers" have not existed since the mid-2000s. More on this in the blog"100percentpassion".

You should also check the font quality on the dial and the feel of the bezel if it can be rotated. The writing on a Rolex is, without exception, absolutely precise; typing errors are as rare as unicorns. The click of a bezel, for example on the Submariner model, is rich and clearly defined, yet the bezel is easy to turn.

Then take a look at the case back: if you find an engraving here, you are either holding a model from the Sea Dweller series in your hands, or most likely a fake. The engraving "Winner 24 Daytona" is extremely popular. If this is visible, leave it! The same applies to glass backs through which you can see the movement. There is a German watchmaker who actually makes these backs, but they are only original in exceptional cases, such as the 2023 edition of the platinum Daytona.

You can also tell whether a Rolex is genuine by looking at its clasp. If the buckles do not engage properly or if there are uneven gaps, this is not a good sign. Also interesting: the polish on the inside. Depending on the model, it may be matt or highly polished - a detail that many counterfeiters overlook.

Now look at the strap. Are there any sharp edges? Gaps where there shouldn't be any? All bad signs. A Rolex bracelet does not rattle and the end pieces, which lie directly on the watch, should not have any play.

All good so far - the secrets of a Rolex

Now start looking for details that often cause counterfeiters to fail. At 6 o'clock, a crown should be visible in the glass of the watch - we are still talking about current models. Turn the watch towards the light to see the small crown. The "laser crown" is very fine, often not visible, but always there. In counterfeits, it is either missing completely - or is more coarsely incorporated. In very rare cases, the crown is not found at 6 o'clock, but elsewhere. This can happen if a watch has been in the workshop - but, as I said, it is extremely rare.

Then take a closer look - especially with movements from the 3130 series, you should hear a soft ringing, assuming absolute silence. This is unique and cannot be heard in counterfeits. But: Unfortunately, this charming feature does not apply to all watches - and therefore only helps if certain movements are to be expected in the watch. However, a steady ticking should always be audible. For connoisseurs: It is usually 28,800 vibrations per hour, i.e. eight ticks per second.

A modern Rolex glows in blue - if it does. Rolex calls this

The color of the numbers in the bezel inlay can also be an indicator of a fake watch. Rolex vaporizes the ceramic inlays with either platinum or gold. On a genuine watch, the platinum has a slightly silvery shimmer and looks rather gray without much light. A watch with bright, almost white numerals is unlikely to come from Switzerland.

It is also worth taking a look at the hands - especially if luminous material is used. Look for a depth effect in places where the luminous material is applied. Hands that are too smooth are not a good sign. In the dark, a modern Rolex should glow blue, not green. The easiest way to test this is with a flashlight. Hold it briefly on the watch, then cover it with your hand and examine the color.

If the watch has a date, make sure it is exactly in the center of the window. If the Rolex has a magnifying glass, and almost all of them do, the magnification should be around a factor of 2.5. Rolex also has an anti-reflective coating on the underside of the magnifying glass, which often results in a blue tint in counterfeits.

There is a lot to see inside a Rolex

Even if Rolex - as mentioned above - hardly ever uses glass backs, the movements are beautiful to look at. 90 percent of all counterfeits are exposed when the watch is opened. The problem is that you need either the right tools or a friendly watchmaker with the right equipment. If it is a "super replica", the counterfeiters will also try to replicate the original as closely as possible. A look at the Rolex homepage will help here. Compare photos of the movement working in the watch in question with the movement in the watch in front of you. Pay particular attention to the anodized gears, the balance bridge, the screws on the balance (stop the watch for this) and the color of the hairspring, which should be blue.

The movement is now also frequently counterfeited - often only professionals can tell when something is wrong. The color of the hairspring, the balance bridge, the screws of the balance and the color of the gears can provide a clue.

Minefield Rolex Vintage

All the tips in this article are, firstly, no guarantee that a watch with the features mentioned is really genuine and, secondly, refer to newer models. The authenticity of so-called "vintage" watches is often even more difficult to determine the older they are. If you are not an expert in this field, look for help in forums such as "RLX" or contact a connoisseur of old Rolex watches. As a layman, buying coveted models from before the turn of the millennium is a minefield. Extensive research and expert help are absolutely essential here.