"Elton John Reveals Intimate Photography Collection: 'My Eyes Have Been Opened'"
"According to exhibition co-curator Duncan Forbes, the title of the exhibition is crucial. 'Fragile Beauty' was handpicked by Elton. It's a motif that runs through the entire show, depicting the delicate nature of the human experience.
Since the 1990s, Elton John and his filmmaker husband have amassed an astounding collection of over 7,000 photographs. This impressive assortment has been hailed as 'one of the great contemporary photography collections of our era' by the director of the V&A, Tristram Hunt, in the catalog of the exhibition. Previously exhibited in Atlanta in 2000 and at London's Tate Modern in 2016, the latest edition of the collection showcases more than 300 images, spanning ages from the mid-20th century to the present.
Early works on display include Richard Avedon's iconic 1955 shot 'Dovima with Elephants', which set the tone for his subsequent career with its fantastical depiction of a woman and elephants, and is a reminder of his philosophy on photography as a reprieve from everyday life. The most up-to-date piece featured is 'Simply Fragile' (2022) by American photographer Tyler Mitchell, who is known for his images of Beyonce. This piece perfectly embodies his concept of a 'Black utopic vision'.
The exhibition is not arranged chronologically, but rather divided into 'chapters', such as 'Fashion', 'Stars of Stage Screen and Studio', 'Reportage', and 'Desire'. The grouping is reflective of how John and Furnish display the prints in their residences, from London to LA. Harbin, director of The Sir Elton John and David Furnish Photography Collection and a co-curator of 'Fragile Beauty', said "Their LA house has these amazing Eggleston prints—all rare, sought-after, early dyed transfers—in the dining room. Then, in their Atlanta home, you'll find a plethora of Hujars."
A personal collection
"’We truly began to conceptualize this exhibition while sitting at Elton and David's kitchen table,’ confirmed Forbes. 'This is a highly personal collection. It's not built by art advisers; it's a collection that's been passionately cultivated by the two men who own it.'"
Harbin, who has collaborated with John and Furnish since 2010, plays a key role in crafting and curating the collection. Each piece is carefully selected: 'They’re not pursuing big names or the hottest artist of the moment. It's a fluid process. We’re still acquiring new works regularly.', stated Harbin, referring to their latest acquisition - Avedon's renowned 1981 portrait of Ronald Fisher, a beekeeper surrounded by bees on his naked torso, featured in the 'Fragile Beauty' exhibit.
Among the most poignant pieces is Mapplethorpe's final self-portrait, a haunting image of the American artist gripping a skull-topped cane, with a determined gaze. Known for his portraits, evocative floral images (as seen on the 'Fragile Beauty' catalog cover), and representations of New York's BDSM gay bars, Mapplethorpe passed away at the young age of 42 due to AIDS. Harbin added: 'The collection is deeply intertwined in their lives and their involvement with the Elton John AIDS Foundation.'
The exhibition highlights both the history of gay liberation - such as Sunil Gupta's 'Christopher Street' series, detailing gay visibility in 70s New York - and queer artists, from George Platt Lynes in the 40s to contemporary South African artist Zanele Muholi and her self-portraits promoting Black queer visibility.
The gallery labeled 'Desire' is a revelry of male beauty, presenting Mel Roberts' 1970s images for the bodybuilding magazine 'The Young Physique', Gilbert & George's 'Naked Body' (1991), Ryan McGinley's unfiltered and intimate 'Having Sex' series, and Don Herron's 'Tub Shots', depicting groundbreaking queer artists Keith Haring, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Peter Hujar relaxing in the bathtub."
In one section, the exhibition is named "Fragile Beauty", showcasing the work of artists such as Mapplethorpe, Hujar, and McGinley. Within this area, the photographs of documentary photographer Mary Ellen Mark captivate, particularly a portrait of a 14-year-old Seattle prostitute, referred to as "Tiny". The main focal point is a vast, floor-to-ceiling installation of Goldin's series "Thanksgiving", featuring 149 photos. These images represent a visual diary of the downtown New York art scene and its excess, illustrating Goldin's injured and battered face, a result of an abusive relationship, as well as the shocking impact of drug addiction and AIDS among her friends.
The curation of this exhibit undoubtedly reflects John's personal experiences, as it was after seeking treatment for addiction in 1990 that he developed a fondness for photography. Harbin, a colleague, recalls a tale of John's meeting with David Fahey, a photography dealer, at a French chateau during lunch. Fahey divulged their encounter over a Zoom call, explaining: "I was carrying photographs with me and was asked to share them with everyone due to John's emotional response to the pictures". Instruction in John's life led to his fascination with the work of 20th-century fashion photographers, including Irving Penn, Herb Ritts and Horst P. Horst. He chose around 10 images and presented them before giving half to the host, showcasing his ability to gift photos to others.
John writes fondly about this event in the catalogue for his 2000 Atlanta exhibition, acknowledging the impact their initial encounter had on his life: "Had it not been for this meeting, my ignorance about photography and its beauty would probably still be within me. Instead, my vision has been opened to this stunning visual world".
Fahey also highlighted John's shift in collecting interest, moving towards intensive documentary and photojournalism.
The V&A's "Reportage" segment is particularly striking. Forbes described the section as resting on photography from the American civil rights movement, emphasizing the beauty of a piece by African American artist Roy DeCarava. Other photographs may instantly evoke memories, for instance, Associated Press photographer Julio Cortez's widely recognized image of a protester in Minneapolis in May 2020, emphasizing the murder of George Floyd.
The expansive scope is at times overpowering; however, Hunt summarizes: "The exhibit possesses a wealth, drama, beauty, and tragedy that I seldom encounter in a photo-based exhibition".
"Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection" can be viewed at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London until January 5, 2025.
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The style of the photography collection curated by Elton John and his husband showcases a range of artistic approaches, from the fantastical depictions of Richard Avedon to the contemporary vision of Tyler Mitchell.
The 'Fragile Beauty' exhibition, featuring pieces from their personal collection, showcases the intersection of arts and style, highlighting the delicate nature of the human experience.
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