Political Symbolism: The Transformation of the Pussy-Bow Blouse into a Prominent Emblem for Influential Women like Kamala Harris
As the UK's first female prime minister, Thatcher could be understood to go along with her male colleagues and downplay her gender. However, the so-called Iron Lady recognized that politics is a delicate mix of soft and hard power, and clothes served as tools to soften the harsh edges of a 1-decade tenure marked by conflict with labor unions, domestic power struggles, and the Falklands war.
Enter the pussy-bow.
Though the term gained popularity in the 20th century ("Fashion refers to them as 'pussy-cat bows,' as they fluff out most daintily from high-rising necklines," a 1955 Newburgh News article stated), the practice of adorning blouses or bodices with bows dates back much further. At times, the embellishment is known as the Lavalière tie, named after Duchess Louise de La Valliére - King Louis XIV's 'official' mistress. Accounts suggest that the duchess was inspired by the king's cravat and created one for herself using ribbon.
Three centuries later, the pussy-bow has emerged as a preferred choice for professional women aiming to command respect and convey crucial messages.
The influence of the pussy-bow
Today, this accessory is a go-to for Vice President Kamala Harris, who has sported pussy-bow blouses throughout her presidential campaign. From her appearance at the Democratic National Conference in August, to her televised debate with Donald Trump in September, and a star-studded chat with Oprah shortly after, to her recent "60 Minutes" interview with Bill Whitaker where she addressed topics like foreign policy, the economy, and her stance on gun control, Harris has embraced this trend.
The rise of the pussy-bow as a wardrobe staple for working women can be traced back to the mid-20th century. Between 1950 and 1970, the number of married women aged 35 to 44 participating in the US workforce dramatically increased, from 25% to 46%. The question of what they should wear sparked genuine concern and even presented an opportunity for some. In his popular book "The Women's Dress for Success," published in 1977, author John T. Malloy recommended neck-tie blouses as essential attire for ambitious women, suggesting they be paired with skirt suits, as pants were not deemed office-appropriate.
The influx of women in the workplace during the '70s and '80s led to the pussy-bow blouse's widespread popularity in workplaces, cementing it as a symbol of corporate, second-wave feminism. Yet, female empowerment remained confined to the workplace, and women were not considered equal. Men often had rigid expectations of how their new female colleagues should present themselves, as demonstrated by Malloy's book. President Richard Nixon publicly criticized reporter Helen Thomas for wearing trousers, stating that he preferred dresses.
A feminine presence in a male domain
The length of a pussy-bow blouse's tie, resembling a traditional necktie, signified assimilation without claiming equality. As Meg Whitman, one of Proctor and Gamble's earliest female executives, explained in the 2013 PBS documentary "Makers: Women Who Make America," "We dressed in suits with a skirt and a jacket, with a button-down shirt and a little bowtie. That was our interpretation of a man's tie... It was our attempt to be feminine but fit into a male world."
Even today, despite considerable advancements in gender rights in the workplace, the pussy-bow continues to serve as a safe wardrobe staple for high-powered women. As New York-based womenswear designer Nina McLemore pointed out in a 2020 Zoom interview with CNN, "It's a way to say, 'I'm a professional,' and soften it. If you're too 'masculine,' then you're seen as a threat." McLemore, who has dressed notable female politicians like Hillary Clinton, Elizabeth Warren, and Democratic Rep. Maxine Waters, as well as Supreme Court Justice Elena Kagan, explained, "You can't erase a million years (of conditioning) in a century."
Sartorial defiance
The pussy-bow has also been harnessed as a powerful symbol beyond the workplace. In 2016, observers speculated that Melania Trump had worn a hot pink Gucci Lavallière shirt to counter her husband's infamous remark about "grabbing women by the pussy," which had surfaced just days prior.
Kate Moss opted for a white polka-dot pussy-bow during her ex-boyfriend Johnny Depp's defamation trial in 2022; while in 2018, Sara Danius - the first woman to be appointed head of the Swedish Academy, the Nobel Prize-awarding body – wore a white silk pussy-bow to a press conference following her controversial dismissal over the academy's handling of a sexual misconduct investigation. Women across Sweden protested her dismissal, contending that it was unfair to punish Danius for another man's offenses, and wore similar neck-ties as a show of solidarity.
The famous blouse with the distinctive bow became a popular topic online... This fashion piece transformed into a symbol for feminism, as stated by Jenny Sundén, a professor focusing on gender studies at Södertörn University in Sweden, in a phone conversation with CNN. Protesters even wore this type of blouse, known as the pussy-bow, during gatherings outside the Stock Exchange building in Stockholm, where an important meeting was held.
Although the purpose behind wearing this blouse may vary, it has sparked debate among people. Some view it as a symbol of women's freedom, while others perceive it as an outdated representation of the societal pressure on women to embrace their femininity, even in places where they are considered equal.
Sundén, however, is not entirely convinced of its feminist nature. She describes the pussy-bow blouse as a "loaded garment," highlighting its ability to be both innocuous and provocative at the same time by hiding and emphasizing the wearer's body.
"I believe, as far as female symbols go, it's quite an unusual choice," Sundén said. "It's a bit amusing too, it has a charming absurdity to it."
McLemore shares a similar perspective, stating that the pussy-bow blouse has the power to bring a smile to one's face. She also observed that many successful women in the business world, particularly CEOs of Fortune 500 companies, shared a common trait: a great sense of humor.
In the context of professional women aiming to command respect and convey important messages, Vice President Kamala Harris has frequently worn pussy-bow blouses throughout her political career. Three centuries prior, the duchess Duchess Louise de La Valliére, King Louis XIV's 'official' mistress, popularized the Lavalière tie, an early incarnation of the pussy-bow.
