Paris Fashion Week for Men: Bold Statements, Stunning Surprise Show by A$AP Rocky, and Emotional Farewell by Dries Van Noten
In this current state, there was an abundance of political discourse in the menswear fashion shows, particularly from the American designers exhibiting in the city. At Rick Owens' extravagant show at the Palais de Tokyo, where a nearly all-white collection combined biblical references and Art Deco was displayed, he sent out a diverse group of models whom he referred to as his "White Satin Army of Love", encouraging unity among them.
In the show notes, Owens wrote, "Individuality is important, but remembering our unity and reliance on each other is equally crucial, especially in these times of rising intolerance worldwide."
Similarly, rapper A$AP Rocky made a statement for his Paris Fashion Week debut—a secret show for his label AWGE—with a presentation titled "American Sabotage". Hosted in Karl Lagerfeld's former home, the 18th-century mansion Hôtel de Maisons, the event saw Rihanna, Pusha T, Casey Affleck, and designers Jonathan Anderson and Willy Chavarria in attendance.
To set the dystopian tone, invitations bore an antiwar sign, and guests were greeted with cakes resembling guns and cocaine bags. On the runway, models marched with their heads covered by American eagle flags, wore slogans like "Don't be Dumb", and carried plastic bags filled with cash. In the show notes, the rapper declared that his label represents "more than just a brand—it’s a movement."
Pharrell amplified military symbols in his fourth Louis Vuitton showing, combining camouflage and damier, the luxury house's signature checkerboard, into "damoflage". The show, hosted at UNESCO headquarters, showcased cartography graphics and military berets, symbolizing travel, aviation, international diplomacy, and creative dialogue.
KidSuper presented another grand show with giant marionette hands, from which models emerged like puppets. The designer aimed to "explore interconnectedness and the unseen forces shaping our world", inviting the audience to "reflect on autonomy" and the narratives we construct for ourselves.
Elsewhere on the runways, designers embraced subculture styles. German magazine 032C displayed techno couture, which bridged a party-to-office lifestyle. Meanwhile, Junya Watanabe presented a mix of tartan and heavy metal, incorporating reworked ACDC, Skorpions, and Black Sabbath tees into a tailored wardrobe. Doublet blended club-kid aesthetics with suiting and graffitied tops. Models carried gold and silver pom poms, adding an unexpected accessory to both casual and formal looks.
Queer fashion label Jeanne Friot showcased feather-adorned denim pants and belt bandeau skirts for all genders, crafted entirely from deadstock. The designer aims to provide a wider range of expressions for men, viewing punk as not just a break from social norms, but also local, responsible production.
Storied luxury house Comme des Garçons played with bright fuchsia tailoring and skirt pants, blurring former gender distinctions. Japanese brand Sacai brought experimental couture to everyday clothes, focusing on the joy and freedom of discovery. Taakk offered romantic lines, sheer shirts, floral motifs, and a sense of delicacy, with candy-coloured silk and satin, as well as coiled pin curls worn by models.
Lastly, Etudes Studio based its work on what artists might need, taking inspiration from Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat for its "laid-back, nonchalant" sense of elegance.
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten closed his eponymous brand's chapter, stepping down after 38 years, with his final—and 150th—collection. Shown on a runway made of silver foil, the shimmery, delicate pieces marked his farewell, evoking a celebration of his life's work. The show received a standing ovation as Donna Summer's "I Feel Love" filled the atmosphere, culminating in a giant disco ball at the end of the runway, welcoming guests to join the party for Van Noten's final bow.
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In the midst of the political discourse in menswear fashion shows, designers explored various styles to make bold statements. For instance, A$AP Rocky's Paris Fashion Week debut, titled "American Sabotage", showcased a dystopian theme with models wearing American eagle flags and carrying plastic bags filled with cash, promoting his label as more than just a brand—it's a movement.
Furthermore, style icons continue to influence fashion, as seen in Junya Watanabe's runway, where Hard Rock icons' T-shirts featuring ACDC, Black Sabbath, and Skorpion dominated the show. This fusion of subculture styles and high fashion demonstrates how fashion trends often draw inspiration from various sources, merging popular culture with fashion design.
