Virginie Viard Is behind the renowned fashion label Chanel. - Karl Lagerfeld's successor at Chanel: Why did she leave her position?
The cloudy skies above Marseille in France concealed rain on this day in early May when Chanel unveiled its Cruise Collection. This former line, created for wealthy passengers on cruise ships, was meant to exude a summer vibe. But guests shivered 60 meters high on the roof of the renowned "La Cité Radieuse" high-rise building by Le Corbusier. Virginie Viard, the brand's creative director, elected this location for her collection featuring graphic cuts and Bauhaus colors.
Despite the presence of mini skirts, hoodies, and shirt sleeves, some attire bore resemblance to dated kitchen towels, paired with flats - an outfit that would have suited a lounge chair better than the current setting. All these mismatched pieces were mirrored in audience reactions on social media: "Ugly!", "A disaster!", "What has Chanel become?"
Chapter: Virginie Viard's Departure from Chanel
The Chanel management could have posed a question to themselves. Only four weeks after the Cruise Collection, Chanel divulged that Virginie Viard, the creative director of the French brand, was stepping down. On June 25th, her last collection for the company would be displayed.
An era concludes. Viard had been employed by Chanel for nearly three decades. She kickstarted her career as an intern at their headquarters on Rue Cambon and later collaborated intimately with Karl Lagerfeld. Frequently, he applauded her, stating that she was his "right hand" and "left hand". Given these close relations, many weren't surprised when she ascended to the helm after Lagerfeld's passing in 2019. Uncharacteristic of successors in the fashion world, she did not drastically alter the brand, but upheld the legacy of her mentor.
Tasked with designing eight collections annually and supervising Chanel's expansive portfolio of apparel, eyewear, and handbags, the 62-year-old stayed away from making a splash on social media. Despite the criticism leveled at her creations, they continued to sell well. During her reign, the company's revenue steadily increased by 75%, reaching an impressive 18 billion euros in 2023. However, despite this steady income, Chanel's dominance in the luxury market dimmed as a result of economic decline. As competitors such as Gucci suffered drastic sales dips, Chanel maintained its position through Douglas drastic contractions in the luxury market.
This illustrates that robust sales no longer guarantee directors' permanence, especially if they're not celebrated on social media or driving a fervor over desired items.
Rumors of potential replacements have filled the fashion industry for a while. Hedi Slimane is a front-runner. His name has been linked to Chanel multiple times, with Karl Lagerfeld expressing admiration for his suit designs for Dior Homme. As of now, he dominates the art of designing the cult brand Celine. Yet, his ongoing contract negotiations and conflicts with LVMH, their parent company, lead some to anticipate his imminent release.
Another contender for the Chanel role is Pierpaolo Piccioli, who has launched Valentino into the stratosphere for decades.
UK-based Sarah Burton is another name that keeps popping up. She has revived Alexander McQueen's brand following his death. However, it's unfeasible to imagine her equipped with the power-house role at Chanel. Although Chanel is a female-centric brand, most of the creative director positions in the fashion world are occupied by men. Thus, her anticipated absence would leave a significant void. Chanel
