In Paris, there's concern that the dream of size inclusivity in the fashion industry may be drawing to a close.
Since its debut in 2019 by creative duo and couple Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre, the brand has been celebrated for its innovative use of adaptable couture techniques. Techniques such as pleating and drawstrings eliminate the need for traditional sizing, enabling Ester Manas to cater to sizes ranging from XS to 3XL.
In 2023, the label was honored with the esteemed French fashion award, the ANDAM prize, and has since gained a following among artists like SZA, Jorja Smith, Kali Uchis, and Beth Ditto, offering a refreshing departure from the dominant slim ideal prevalent in the Parisian fashion scene.
However, a significant concern was raised during this period - one that was also the title of the house's show and prominently displayed on tops. This issue, as acknowledged by the design duo backstage, suggested a broader trend; a decline in interest and positive messaging around size inclusivity over the last few months. "As a larger-sized individual," said Manas, "I've noticed 'benevolence' has shifted...The everyday fatphobia has resurfaced."
This shift became more apparent in the days leading up to the show, as the designers encountered limited casting options for inclusive models. "We were given very few opportunities for size-inclusive models during castings," said Manas. "We are currently one of the only brands providing employment to them."
The pair also stated that model agencies had asked them about the number of 'normal-sized' models they had booked for the show, referring to models with a lower BMI. "The concept of 'normal' or 'average' should be reevaluated," said the duo. "Skinny is something ingrained from a young age in France, such as drinking water to suppress hunger, smoking cigarettes to suppress appetite, and skipping dessert...It's common and normalized behavior."
Backstage after the show, the designers expressed their surprise at witnessing several celebrities who previously embraced their bodies shedding pounds over the past year. They referred to this trend as "being Ozempicked."
With the rise in popularity of medications like Ozempic and Wegovy (also known as GLP-1 medications) over the last two years, these drugs have helped users lose weight. Goldman Sachs forecasts the drugs could be used by up to 70 million consumers worldwide by 2028.
The widespread adoption of these medications has led to expected consequences in the fashion and beauty industry, and, based on Ester Manas's experience, these effects are already being felt.
Last year, CNN reported that the number of mid and plus-size models appearing at the Fall-Winter 2023 shows decreased by 24% compared to the Spring-Summer season. Similarly, a 2023 size inclusivity report conducted by Vogue Business found that 95.6% of all looks presented at Fall-Winter 2023 were in sizes U.S. 0-4.
Ester Manas have reported increasing difficulty selling in the wholesale market and have turned to direct sales and the 'See Now, Buy Now' model, where pieces are available for pre-order as soon as they hit the runway.
"Numerically, it's evident that this 'trend' (of personal comfort with size and societal acceptance of inclusivity) has regressed," said Delepierre. The pair also cited inquiries from fashion journalists asking how the brand would adapt now that the 'plus-sized trend' was fading.
"Fashion became inclusive, but inclusivity was in fashion," explained Giulietta Canzani Mora, a publicist and TV host close to the brand. "It seemed like the industry wanted to make a difference in the world, but it seems not to be the case. People wanted to be assimilated into what's cool, which embracing size inclusivity was for a while, not because it's for the greater good."
The Ester Manas team is cautious about maintaining the visibility of the 'next generation' of women who gained prominence during the apparent shift towards increased inclusivity. "Where will these women - our models, community members, and activists - go now?" they asked.
Guillaume Boulez, a stylist who has dressed models, dancers, and former athletes for Ester Manas, has faith. "Beyond the size dimension, Ester Manas pieces are powerful and make everyone feel attractive," he said. "That's what the brand aims to do – empower women of any size." According to Delepierre, the women they dress are intelligent, successful, and express their individuality through their fashion choices. "We aspire to instill confidence and the freedom to be seen in them," said Delepierre.
The brand's innovative use of adaptable couture techniques, such as pleating and drawstrings, has become a prominent aspect of its unique style, setting it apart in the fashion industry. With the increasing popularity of medications that aid in weight loss, there's been a noticeable shift in the fashion scene, leading to a decrease in mid and plus-size models featured in shows.
In response to the declining interest in size inclusivity, Ester Manas has shifted their focus towards direct sales and the 'See Now, Buy Now' model, prioritizing empowering women of all sizes through their powerful and attractive designs.
