In light of increasing anti-LGBTQ discrimination, these Nigerian fashion labels must now display their creations privately.
In Nigeria, where LGBTQ individuals face intense homophobia and intolerance, including violence, Lagos Fashion Week has provided a welcoming environment for marginalized groups and unconventional brands. Since its inception, Nigerian fashion label Orange Culture has made waves by showcasing male models in skirts, makeup, and ribbons on the runway, challenging traditional gender norms. Companion label Maxivive has also pushed boundaries through provocative designs addressing issues of sexuality and identity over the years.
However, the inclusivity of Lagos Fashion Week has been threatened more recently as the nation's culture has grown more hostile towards non-binary and gay people. In 2014, Nigeria adopted the SSMPA law, which prohibits gay marriage, same-sex relationships, and even membership in gay rights organizations, along with punishment of up to 14 years in prison for offenders. Gay rights activists claim that these attitudes are seeping into the fashion industry as well.
Kayode Timileyin, the founder of Queercity Media and Production, one of the leading LGBTQ organizations in Nigeria, remarked, "There is a history of anti-queerness when it comes to fashion week in Nigeria." He mentioned the case of Fola Francis, the first transgender person to be cast by labels to model on the catwalk, in 2022. Although her participation was celebrated as a milestone for African fashion and the queer community, it also stirred controversy. Francis complained about receiving heavy backlash from certain segments of Nigerian society and pointed out that her pictures were not featured on Lagos Fashion Week's social media channels. Lagos Fashion Week did not respond to Xtra magazine's requests for comment.
Subversive fashion house Maxivive experienced a similar setback during the Spring-Summer 2023 presentations when their show was canceled at the last minute. Papa Oyeyemi, the brand's founder, declined to speak about the incident, while the rumor circulated that the presentation was considered "too gay" by the organizers. A non-binary model confirmed to CNN that the show's cancellation was disappointing and emphasized that queer individuals exist in Nigeria, and fashion should be a mode of expression, not a barrier.
Tosin Ogundadegbe, a Lagos-based fashion stylist known as The Style Infidel on social media, stated, "The traditional fashion schedule is lacking inclusivity on the runway. We only see representation of marginalized communities at private shows." [In light of this pressure to conform to anti-gay legislation and the rise in divisive political maneuvers concerning gender, sexuality, and inclusivity in Nigeria, several fashion brands have chosen to display their collections in hidden, "underground" private presentations. Tzar Studios, a playful contemporary menswear brand, and Weiz Dhurm Franklyn, a read-to-wear brand, have both held invite-only shows in this manner to ensure that they can fully align with their brand ethos. Udiahgebi, a fashion brand known for its androgynous pieces, hosted a private show with great success, featuring five non-binary models in 2022. Brand creative director Chiemerie Udiahgebi Ugwoke disclosed, "The feedback after my show was surprisingly good. I didn't anticipate such positive reviews from the attendees because I designed pieces with a see-through fabric, animal prints, and cut-outs-something more likely to draw negative reactions due to societal values." (This article was sourced from CNN.)
In conclusion, as intolerance and hostility towards non-binary and gay people increases in Nigeria, fashion brands are turning to private presentations to express their brands more freely. Despite the challenges, Nigeria's queer community continues to make strides in the fashion world, proving that they too can contribute to the country's thriving fashion scene.
A new and diverse fashion brand called Aso Nigeria made a bold move by featuring Fola Francis, a transgender model, in both their private fashion show in December 2022 and in an advertising campaign launched in February 2024. The creator of the brand, Aanuoluwa Ajide-Daniels, explained that this was crucial to the identity of Aso and would continue throughout its lifetime.
Kayode Timileyin, an enthusiastic supporter of the fashion world, shared his opinion that fashion should ignite discussion and stimulate thought, but felt that this was often stifled at Lagos Fashion Week. To promote a more inclusive future for the talented designers and artists of Africa, many believe it's vital to express their true selves in a private setting.
Lagos Fashion Week has not addressed CNN's multiple requests for comment.
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In the face of this restrictive environment, Nigerian fashion labels like Orange Culture and Maxivive have declined to showcase their fashion collections publicly, opting instead for private showcases to protect their creativity and adhere to their brand ethos. Embracing their unique fashion styles, these designers continue to challenge traditional norms and promote diversity in their private presentations, demonstrating the resilience of the fashion industry in the face of societal constraints.
Furthermore, as fashion continues to be a powerful tool for self-expression, many designers in Nigeria are embracing the private showcase setting to freely explore themes of gender and sexuality, drawing inspiration from the global fashion scene. This shift towards more intimate, exclusive presentations has empowered designers to create bold, innovative pieces that push the boundaries of Nigerian fashion and pave the way for a more inclusive fashion industry that reflects the society's diversity.
