In a time-honored theater in Bangkok, enthusiastic performers preserve a masked artistry.

In a revered Bangkok theater, ardent actors maintain a concealed artistry.

Visitors to Thailand might have encountered the masks of the country's traditional "masked drama" rehearsals, whether they realized it or not. At Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, for instance, monumental yak sculptures command attention from those about to leave.

These huge statues are among the many vibrant characters to surface in Ramakien, a popular Thai mythological narrative based on the Hindu classic, Ramayana. And Khon, originating in the Ayutthaya Empire's period (1351-1767), showcases the variety of tales in his eponymous classic through a flawless blend of dance, martial arts, Thai music, and peerless costumes and accessories. The cultural importance of Khon was confirmed by its classification as an Intangible Cultural Heritage piece by UNESCO in 2018.

Inside the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre

In Khon, the main figures comprise of: Phra (lords), Nang (ladies), Yak (ogres), and Ling (monkeys). Yak and monkey performers both don masks while the other characters accentuate their facial features with captivating makeup. (Dialogue is voiced by an unseen narrator.)

Today, Khon is seen, performed, and promoted in a multitude of places, from classes to festive gatherings, and even in international Thai dining establishments. Yet, an authentic Khon performance can be experienced at the historic Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre in Bangkok.

Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre is a time-honored institution converted into a make-believe kingdom welcoming three separate productions a day, granting audiences the chance to witness Khon.

We overheard a conversation as guests clicked backstage, diving into the secrets that the Khon actors shared about safeguarding this remarkable art form in modern times.

The two protagonist characters for this specific Khon show, performing Hanuman, the Monkey King, and Princess Mermaid (also known as Suvannamaccha), arrived hours before the first show to get ready.

The captivating lady portraying the Princess Mermaid, Apassara Nok-ork, aged 35, has been molded into this role after years of training. (Catch them enact their performance in the top video.)

She begins her makeup process and shares with CNN that her traditional Thai lessons began at about 4 years of age. By the time she was 15, she made the decision to specialize in Khon.

“We must commence learning from an early age and continue to perfect our skills while practicing and maintaining our body. Since the costume is heavy, any hint of exhaustion would show to the audience," Apassara shares.

Becoming an excellent Khon performer demands an advanced level of flexibility. The ladies' hand motions on stage appear unnatural, the consequence of all the rigorous training.

Apassara agreed to display her agility, grabbing her left hand with four fingers with her right hand and bending her wrist backward while maintaining a posture that most would find agonizing.

She confessed that the commitment needed to reach this level of prowess is often more intensive, leading to individuals without the requisite passion quitting.

Without a trace of fatigue, Apassara moved gracefully onto the stage for the day's first show, while her heavy metallic crown and elaborate dress didn't weigh her down. As she escaped Hanuman's pursuit, they eventually team up for a romantic first performance.

Credit: Ryan Hodgson/CNN

In Apassara's life, the challenges outweighed by the triumphs.

"Khon introduced me to remarkable settings like royal ceremonies and distant nations. I relish the joy of showcasing this critical artistry to the public every time," she continues.

Apassara Nok-ork, pictured in the role of Suvannamaccha, has been performing khon for two decades.

Peeking underneath Hanuman's Mask

The masks used by dancers portraying the Yak and Monkey figures vary according to the character's standpoint. For Skilled artisans, it's a time-consuming creative process that may take weeks or months.

These performers must also fit their costumes tightly, thus zippers or buttons aren't suitable options.

Especially the Monkey King's mask requires incomparable strength and unrelenting determination. At Sala Chalermkrung, Thanet Pakwisath, a 34-year-old practitioner of Khon for over twenty years, devotes himself to replicating this demanding character.

Thanet tells CNN he must continuously practice to attain the required strength for the acrobatics like jumps and summersaults: "The Monkey King's role necessitates uncommon physical prowess. It's a commitment I'm content with."

However, as with other thespians, he expresses uneasiness about its future. "Khon's future is unknown. It'll take sincere dedication to keep our folks involved in learning and nurture the younger generation," he mused.

"I want more people to notice and appreciate Khon, as I'm not sure if it'll vanish in the future or people may stop caring about it," mentions Thanet.

Now, only a small clan of individuals is working to preserve Khon. He hopes everyone, including Thai citizens and foreigners, can join in these efforts.

Sala Chalermkrung: A Living Museum

Bangkok's beloved Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theater holds an intriguing history. Located on reputed Charoenkrung Road, which is Bangkok's earliest paved street, it commemorated its 90th anniversary in 2023.

Established by King Prajadhipok to mark the 150th anniversary of Bangkok's founding, it opened to the public in 1933, introducing locals to movies with sound - mostly foreign movies dubbed in Thai - in a sleek, technologically advanced building with air conditioning.

Thai movies entered their heyday in the post-World War II period, and so did the theater. Sala Chalermkrung became synonymous with movie premieres, attracting celebrities and other Thai public figures.

However, by the late 1970s, the audience at Sala Chalermkrung began to dwindle. The new millennium brought an urge to revamp this gem.

After a set of restorations, it reopened with a fresh vision: Displaying and preserving Khon, along with traditional Thai arts. Luckily, the theater's original charm remained intact, from its lobby to the performance hall itself.

Now, the shows at Sala Chalermkrung are switched out frequently. Staff informed CNN a new Khon performance would premiere in July. Patrons can also buy a ticket at the gate for 400 baht ($11), but they can gain free access to one of the weekday Khon performances at 1 p.m., 2:30 p.m., and 4 p.m. with a Grand Palace admission ticket (500 baht).

Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theater, 66 Sala Chalermkrung, Charoenkrung Road, Phra Nakhon District, Bangkok; +66 (0)2 224 4499

Thanet Pakwisath puts on his Hanuman mask prior to an afternoon show at Sala Charlermkrung,

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After experiencing the captivating performance at Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre, travelers may want to explore other places where they can witness Khon, such as festive gatherings or international Thai restaurants.

In order to truly appreciate and preserve the art of Khon, passionate individuals are encouraged to travel to Bangkok and visit the historic Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre, just as Apassara Nok-ork did, beginning her training at a young age and continuing to hone her skills over two decades.

Source: edition.cnn.com