Former US Army soldier in Iraq now stands as a prominent chef in Asia and a judge for Netflix's 'Culinary Class Wars'.
Similar to my stint in the US Army where I volunteered to serve during war, seeking an alternative experience - I found myself in South Korea with a new objective, says the Korean-American chef and judge on the popular cooking show "Culinary Tussle Wars", recently renewed for a second season on Netflix.
Sung, 42, is the manager and proprietor of South Korea's sole three-Michelin-starred eatery, Mosu Seoul. In the past few weeks, his prominence as the fastidious and straightforward judge on the new streaming series has garnered him a legion of devoted new followers. It's his spirit and unwavering determination to carve his own path that has played a role in revolutionizing the haute cuisine scene in his native land.
Born in Seoul, South Korea's capital, Sung and his family relocated to San Diego, California when he was thirteen years old.
"We were just a family from Korea, pursuing the American dream," he recalls. "As an immigrant family, we didn't have a strong grasp of the English language."
With aspirations far removed from the culinary world as a teen, growing up on the US West Coast, his ambitions could not have been further from cooking.
"I went to school, made it to college, but decided to join the US Army because I believed it was the only way I could travel," confides the chef.
Over a period of four years, he received training at military bases nationwide, before being assigned to duty in both his homeland of South Korea and, following the September 11 attacks, to the Middle East.
"When I volunteered to serve in Iraq during the war, people questioned my decision," he recalls.
"I heard countless stories about the Korean War and the Vietnam War from my elders — my grandfather, father, uncles and family friends. I felt as if I had the unique opportunity to experience it for myself."
In late 2002, he was deployed to Baghdad for a year-long tour as a specialist with an artillery unit, tasked with clearing bombs and weaponry from Iraqi forces, including the bunker where Saddam Hussein was discovered in 2003.
Sung described his service in the army as "life-changing."
"Being a soldier for four years was one of the most pivotal moments in my life, it was filled with excitement," he said.
"I interacted with people from various places across the United States, like North Dakota, Idaho, Puerto Rico and Hawaii. I gained insights into their cultures and subcultures within their respective nations."
A chance encounter
After his military discharge, Sung yearned for a change – literally. An automotive enthusiast who cherished racing cars illicitly as a teenager, his objective was to become a mechanic for Porsche.
Just weeks before he was set to begin his training, a fortuitous encounter with a group of chefs outside the now-shuttered American outpost of renowned culinary school Le Cordon Bleu in California altered the trajectory of his life once more.
"They were all dressed in white shirts and checked trousers. I had no idea what the school was," he remembers.
After conversing with the chefs and a highly influential career counselor, Sung was "seduced" and opted to suspend his ambition of becoming a mechanic.
"I never looked back, I never regretted it. And now I drive a Porsche, so everything's okay," he says with a laugh.
"I think it was quite spontaneous for me to choose this vocation," he admits. However, cooking was always in his DNA.
As a child, Sung was nourished on his grandmother's cuisine. And in the United States, he honed his culinary skills by assisting in his family's Chinese restaurant post-school.
After culinary school, he honed his skills in some of the West Coast's most prestigious kitchens, from the Michelin-starred French Laundry to Benu and Urasawa.
"I've had the pleasure of meeting some of the greatest chefs in the United States. They've mentored me, refining the ruggedness I had acquired from the military," he says, crediting them for instilling in him the importance of refinement in their trade.
In 2015, Sung established his own restaurant, Mosu San Francisco, marrying American flavors with homage to his Korean heritage.
It was a daring move that paid off – within a year he was bestowed his first Michelin star.
"It didn't satisfy me enough. I was overjoyed for my team, for myself. But I knew there was more to accomplish," he says.
"I wanted to return to my native land and utilize the knowledge I acquired and the insights I gained... utilize indigenous ingredients, Korean culture, heritage."
Therefore, after two decades in the United States and a Michelin star under his belt, it was time to bring Mosu back home.
The face of Seoul cuisine
In 2017, chef Sung opened Mosu Seoul in the heart of one of the world's fastest-growing culinary capitals. His vision was straightforward: to innovate.
Mosu was unlike anything Seoul had previously witnessed. Sung channelled what he had created in San Francisco with fusion cuisine and transformed the menu to celebrate Korean ingredients.
However, this was far from typical Korean cuisine.
The Korean-American chef takes pride in breaking conventions – not being shackled by one particular culinary style or food culture. He melds his culinary inspiration from his upbringing in both his native land and his time in the United States, all with meticulous attention to detail.
The outcome? Tantalizing and whimsical dishes, such as Mosu's signature abalone taco, which pays homage to flavors from both his homeland and memories of California.
"At Mosu, I cook what I think is the best, with no boundaries or genre," he says.
In 2022, Mosu Seoul was honored with three Michelin stars, earning recognition as the modern face of the South Korean capital's evolving culinary scene.
Sung's meticulous approach shines brightly on Netflix's popular reality cooking competition "Culinary Battle Royale," where 20 renowned chefs engage in a fierce competition with 80 up-and-coming cooks, vying for the title of South Korea's top chef.
Sung, a distinguished chef, shares the judging panel with veteran restaurateur Paik Jong-won. Known for his high expectations, Sung challenges even the most skilled chefs, leaving them sweating over their creations. Despite his newfound fame, Sung admits feeling slightly uncomfortable with the attention, claiming he remained true to himself throughout the show.
"I speak my mind honestly, logically, and carefully, as they rely on my opinions," he explained. "I wasn't acting; I was just being me. I admired the contestants' courage and recognized the difficulty of crafting exquisite dishes. I wanted to support them, even though not everyone would emerge victorious. Therefore, I set high standards."
The contest has shed light on the thriving and diverse fine dining scene in South Korea, which had often been overlooked in international culinary circles until lately.
"Seoul has evolved significantly in recent years," Sung said. "It was once a layover city, but it has become a sought-after destination."
In early 2024, four Seoul establishments, such as Mosu, made it onto the list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, including Mingles, Onjium, and 7th Door, a fermentation specialist.
Sung was also honored at this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants ceremony, marking its first appearance in Seoul, with the Chefs’ Choice Award for pioneering a modern fusion of Korean cuisine.
The surge in popularity of Korean fine dining comes at a time when global attention focuses on Korean chefs, from Komah in Sao Paulo to Atomix in New York. Two Michelin stars were awarded to Korean eateries in New York in 2023.
"The world is captivated by Korean culture, cuisine, and fine dining," Sung said. "They're curious about our flavor profiles and how we represent our culture through our cuisine."
In 2022, Sung opened a sister restaurant, Mosu Hong Kong, in the contemporary art gallery M+ located in the burgeoning cultural district of the city.
Embracing Korean craftsmanship
As recognition for Korean cuisine grows, Sung takes it a step further at Mosu Seoul, celebrating more than just local ingredients. He collaborates with Korean artisans, using their handcrafted utensils and ceramics to serve his dishes.
"I wanted my food to be presented on plates that complemented its taste and flavor," Sung explained. "I don't just seek beautiful, expensive, or shiny dishes; I value authenticity and meaning."
Sung sources his tableware from Seoul's renowned specialist craft store Sikijang, located in the prestigious Gangnam district.
"Chef Sung is unique," said Sikijang owner and creative director Chung So-yeong. "He can recognize the essence of crafts, and it's truly impressive."
A signature dish at Mosu Seoul - a spotless white porcelain plate - was crafted by a Seoul-based artist famous for his intricate porcelain sculptures. The artist, Yoon Sol, had never ventured into tableware until introducing to Sung in 2017.
Yoon was inspired by the chef's concept and blended his artistry with Sung's culinary vision.
"I encountered people who shared my thinking, feelings, and emotions, and it gave me goosebumps," Yoon said from his studio in Seoul. "Chef Sung breathes life into each dish, which I greatly respect. I hold him in high regard for his appreciation of beauty."
Yoon's pristine white creations enhance Sung's culinary masterpieces.
"I have a wonderful relationship with the artist," Sung said. "I try to incorporate their artistry and intention into my dishes, showcasing the harmony between the food and its presentation."
The next chapter
In early 2024, Mosu Seoul closed its original location in Itaewon after a seven-year run, moving to a new venue within the district. Set to reopen in early 2025, the refreshed Mosu will preserve its core elements while introducing new dishes and decorative concepts.
"The new space will maintain the DNA of the original Mosu Seoul," Sung said. "However, I plan to elevate it, offering a new culinary experience while upholding its legacy."
Sung often expresses his appreciation for the diverse food and drink offerings he encounters during his travels for the cooking show.
After his successful stint in the US Army, Sung's travels also included visiting various cities across the United States, where he enjoyed exploring local food scenes and trying out different cuisines.
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