'Chappell Roan's makeup artist explains the unconventional aesthetics behind her VMAs makeup application' or 'Understanding the unconventional appeal of Chappell Roan's VMAs makeup'
Later during her performance, Roan jumped through centuries — transforming into a brash interpretation of the medieval feminist icon Joan of Arc, famously known as Joan the Glamour Girl. "If Joan of Arc were a diva," mused Roan's makeup artist, Andrew Dahling, who was instrumental in shaping the VMA's aesthetic. Roan, the reigning Best New Artist, belted out her hit "Good Luck, Babe!" in a dazzling chain-mail knight's suit, her chestnut tresses styled into two long braids. The historical accuracy of her ensemble was momentarily interrupted, however, as her porcelain-white face was subtly blushed with a mauve hue and her brows were replaced by two stark pencil lines. A smoky theatrical eye, constructed from iridescent blue, purple, and gold eyeshadow, extended all the way to her brow bone.
Dahling drew inspiration from Pat McGrath's runway makeup work for Dior in the 2000s. 'It's exceptionally romantic,' he told CNN during a video call from New York. 'But with a dark, romantic twist ... quite dramatic on the eyes, very radiant skin, ethereal ... Each look is situated within this medieval Renaissance realm.'
For her red carpet appearance, Dahling opted for a softer touch. Roan's pale complexion was softly mattified, while her eyes were accentuated with a rim of white liner and capped off with a delicate dab of gold. Dahling wanted to refer to the plump, rosy cheeks of the women immortalized in Renaissance and Baroque oil paintings. 'I love drawing inspiration from artists and painters,' he said. 'As they capture something slightly different to what a makeup artist would do.'
Roan's meteoric rise can, in part, be attributed to her insatiable penchant for reinventing herself as various characters. Over the past four months, she has graced stages dressed as an NFL player complete with bedazzled shoulder pads and 'eye black' stripes at Hangout Festival in Alabama, a latex-clad WWE wrestler at Lollapalooza in Chicago, and a sage green, joint-smoking Lady Liberty at the Governors Ball in New York. (Dahling, who was responsible for Roan's green body paint and makeup, reported that the look took around four hours to create). Despite being almost never absent from her iconic powder white face — a ghostly base that would even leave Queen Elizabeth green with envy — Roan even took to social media to share themes and corresponding mood boards, instructing fans on how to dress for her shows. 'She has such a clear vision,' said Dahling. 'And this larger-than-life superstar version of herself that she wants to project.'
In the spirit of creativity, Roan's unconventional beauty aesthetic often takes a back seat to the conventional 'Instagram makeup' that defines modern-day beauty standards. 'It's not meant to be classically beautiful,' said Dahling of Roan's VMAs look. 'It's a far cry from the polished, Instagram-worthy faces we see today that are perfectly blended and flawless.'
Roan proudly labels herself as a 'drag artist' — a title that is traditionally reserved for male performers who use makeup to embody extravagant, theatrical female personas. Despite being a woman, Roan often adorns her face with direct references to revered drag icons such as Divine, who inspired her look at Kentucky Pride. Violet Chachki, the winner of season seven of 'RuPaul's Drag Race,' served as a muse for Coachella. 'Violet Chachki has this dramatic negative space, smoked-out look she does,' said Dahling. 'I remember it was on one of the initial mood boards I received from Chappell's stylist.'
The concept may be baffling to some, but Dahling argues it shouldn't be. 'Drag is a broad term, especially now,' he told CNN. 'I think anything can be deemed drag — even a man putting on a sharp suit to go to work. Drag is simply about crafting a new face.'
'It's all about creating a new character,' said Dahling. 'You block out the brows — meaning you stick them down and then apply concealer on top to accentuate their shape. It's accentuating the cheekbones, crafting an exaggerated lip shape, contouring the nose. It's constructing a dramatic eye look. It's about donning this character that you transform into... I don't believe it adheres to gender constraints.'
Dahling concurs. 'There are no rules,' he said. 'It's fun. It's not about perfection... it's very much a DIY vibe.' Although he insists 'the messier, the better,' Dahling does have one non-negotiable for fans hoping to replicate Roan's iconic Venetian white foundation. 'No inconsistencies with the base,' he chuckles. 'The base must be impeccable.'
Roan's VMA look, with its smoky theatrical eye and stark pencil brows, showcased a striking blend of beauty and style, transcending traditional beauty standards. In her red carpet appearance, Dahling opted for a softer look, drawing inspiration from the plump, rosy cheeks of Renaissance oil paintings, demonstrating how Roan's beauty aesthetic often embraces different historical styles.
