Elegant clothing styles - Chanel dismisses designer: Why did Virginie Viard lose her job?
The skies over Marseille were gloomy, with dark rain clouds pouring over the city on the Cote d'Azur, as Chanel showed its Cruise Collection in early May. This collection, which was initially designed for luxury cruise enthusiasts, aimed to create a summery ambiance. However, the live audience at the event, located 60 meters high on the Le Corbusier building's roof, "La Cité Radieuse," shivered in the cold. Várejqué Varaldi, Chanel's creative director, had selected this location for her collection, marked by bold cuts and typical Bauhaus colors.
The line showcased mini skirts, hoodies, and trench coats, but some pieces resembled outdated, colorful kitchen towels that Varaldi paired with flat shoes reminiscent of smokes. There seemed to be an overall mismatch as the outfits lacked cohesion. This sentiment was echoed on social media: "Ugly!," "A disaster!," "What has Chanel become?"
From Trainee to Creative Director of Chanel
It's a question Chanel's management may have considered. Just a month after the Cruise Collection, the company revealed that Várejqué Várd would be parting ways. Her final collection for the brand is scheduled for June 25th.
This is the end of an era. Várd has been with Chanel for almost 30 years, starting as an intern at their Rue Cambon flagship store. Later, she became closely involved with Karl Lagerfeld. He often referred to her as "my right and left hand." So, it wasn't surprising when Várd succeeded him in 2019. Different from other designers who take over a label, she didn't introduce any drastic changes but continued Chanel's time-honored legacy.
For five years, she served as Chanel's creative director, creating eight collections a year and managing their expansive empire of clothing, glasses, and handbags. Though she was never popular on social media, she was frequently criticized for her designs. However, they sold well. During her tenure, the company's revenue soared by an astonishing 75%. In late May, Chanel reported a 16% increase in revenue compared to 2023, surpassing 18 billion euros. While other luxury brands like Gucci were dealing with sales plunges of up to 40%, Chanel managed to stay afloat in this market owing to a shaky consumer economy.
Strong sales, however, didn't necessarily secure a designer's position in the long term. Those who do not perform well on social media or frequently create hype about coveted products find themselves quickly out of a job.
Many potential successors have been mulled over. Leading the pack is Hedi Slimane. He's had connections to Chanel for years. Lagerfeld had great admiration for Slimane's designs for Dior Homme. Currently, he's in charge of fashion for the renowned brand Celine. But due to contract negotiations with LVMH, Chanel's parent company, and ongoing disputes over conditions, Slimane could become available soon.
Pierpaolo Piccioli would be another plausible candidate. He designed fashion for Valentino for many years, making it a success.
Sarah Burton is also often mentioned. The British designer resurrected the brand after Alexander McQueen's death. Yet, it's unlikely she'll take on Chanel's succession. Although a woman would well align with the brand's origin, Chanel is currently dominated by male creative directors. As a result, Várd's departure will be felt.
