Why a trip to the Danish capital is also worthwhile in winter

Christmas in Copenhagen - Why a trip to the Danish capital is also worthwhile in winter

As I walk up the stairs at Kongens Nytorv metro station with my friend, I am only a few meters away from the Christmas wonderland at the new Royal Market in the heart of Copenhagen's old town. Numerous lights are shining on the large Christmas tree. There are festive lights all around me as I look at the small stalls. English caramels line up next to wool sweaters, jewelry and gløgg. This is a kind of mulled wine, but it tastes sweeter and there are small pieces of almond and raisins in the cup. It is served here in a plastic cup instead of in deposit cups.

The buildings around the Christmas market on Kongens Nytorv also shine in festive splendor

The many colorful lights and the beautifully decorated houses around the Christmas market create a cozy and Christmassy atmosphere in me. Visitors queue up in front of a large, brightly lit bear to take a photo with the giant figure. I don't really know where to look anyway, because everything is wrapped in a beautiful glow of lights. It's simply hyggelig.

The term hygge may have its origins in the Norwegian language, but the Danes also know how to feel good. Anyone who has ever been on vacation in Denmark will be able to confirm this warm, welcoming atmosphere. People are simply more relaxed and incorporate small, beautiful things into their everyday lives - like the warm light of a candle. For me, the whole city radiates the hygge way of life during Advent, with so many decorated trees, houses, windows and squares.

Christmas atmosphere in the port of Copenhagen

Just a few steps away, Copenhagen's former trading port is lit up in a sea of lights. Colorful old houses and a pub or restaurant in almost every one of them. Many artists used to live in these houses. Hans Christian Andersen, for example, lived in the house at no. 20 and wrote fairy tales such as "The Girl with the Matches" there. During the Advent season, the Christmas market huts are located directly on the quay wall. Here, too, you can buy warm gloves, hats, gløgg and the odd treat.

Copenhagen during the Advent season

In addition to the Christmas markets, my friend and I also wanted to explore Nørrebro in wintry Copenhagen. In 2021, the neighborhood ended up on the list of the 40 coolest neighborhoods in the "Timeout" magazine ranking. We take a bus from the city center into the district via the Dronning Louises Bro. The bridge connects the district with Copenhagen's city center. The city's fortifications once ran along here. Today, people walk or jog along the lakes that the bridge crosses. Nørrebrogade runs like a vein through Nørrebro. On the way to our breakfast spot, we discover lots of small stores, including many vintage and second-hand stores. If you want to go on an extended shopping spree, it's better not to set off too late - many of the smaller stores close between 4 and 6 pm.

Heavenly particles in Copenhagen's multicultural district

Once we arrive at Café Kaf, we make ourselves comfortable and try one of the famous pastries. Delicate puff pastry with nuts and almond cream on top - heavenly. Unfortunately, my stomach is now full, even though there are so many snack bars and restaurants in Copenhagen's multicultural district that we could try. We stroll to the urban park Superkilen, where small swings, a boxing ring, fountains, hills and a drawn floor await us. Admittedly, it's worth a visit, probably more in summer, to sit in the sun with a cold beer. In view of the drizzle and temperatures around freezing point, we end the evening in a bar. At Mikkeller, we have a huge selection of craft beers and try our way through the Christmas varieties.

At first glance, it's hard to believe that there's a great cocktail bar behind this unassuming façade

Another trendy district is located directly west of the central station, where the red light district is located. Via Istedgade, you can quickly reach the part of Vesterbro where there are numerous cafés, stores and bars. Some of them are not so easy to find. Bar 1656 is located in a side street, but instead of a billboard or neon sign, there is just a green door under a red lamp. The windows are covered with curtains. But anyone who dares to enter the bar despite its inconspicuous exterior will be rewarded with a good cocktail menu. Instead of the typical classics, the bar only serves its own creations - even a drinkable cheese platter. Guests sip their drinks in cozy niches on high chairs or on soft stools. Golden peacocks hang on the walls on a black background.

Christmas markets in the heart of Copenhagen

The opening hours of the Christmas markets may seem a little strange to some city dwellers from Germany - but the Julemarked closes at 6 or 7 pm except for Friday and Saturday. On Nytrov Square, also located in the heart of the Danish capital, you should have the opportunity to take a photo with the famous Danish poet Hans Christian Andersen - this Christmas market is also named after him. However, we didn't meet him - but we did meet Santa Claus. He even has his own hut where children can knock on the door and tell him their wishes. Of course, taking photos is also allowed. Admittedly, as we visit this market on Sunday mornings, the beautiful lights that transform the Christmas markets into small, cozy wonderlands in the evening are missing. Stalls with gemstones, wines named after Nordic deities, hats and gloves can be found here alongside churros, sausages and a gløgg stand. Incidentally, this is the first stall to offer a non-alcoholic version of the Danish classic.

The Christmas market on Højbro Plads is said to be the most similar to the German Christmas markets - the stern editor didn't get that impression

We only have to walk a few minutes to get to the next Christmas market. At Højbro Plads, we again find Italian pastries, English caramel, the obligatory bratwurst, potato spirals and raclette in small huts. One stall is full of stamped rolling pins, which can add a very special touch to your own Christmas cookies. To finish off, I stand in the sleigh with Santa Claus for a photo. We actually wanted to visit the Christmas market at Tivoli amusement park - but there wasn't enough time for that! The amusement park is just a few minutes' walk from the main train station and is transformed into a winter wonderland during Advent - we'll probably have to visit it next year.