Italy's most famous designer - The Monolith of Fashion - Giorgio Armani turns 90
Giorgio Armani, the man from Milan, has mastered the small lies of his business perfectly after all these years. It was once again evident a few days ago during the fashion show in Paris, where the Italian, with white hair and a tan, showered customers and celebrities with generous compliments for their clothing choices. And he even praised himself for his work: "My most beautiful collection ever," he declared once more.
The man from Milan can afford this. The competition from the past is no longer a factor. Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint-Laurent, Gianni Versace: all gone. Armani turns 90 on this Thursday. Many consider him the last great fashion genius with an unmistakable style: relaxed, elegant, and simple. He reinvented the sacko and made it possible to wear a T-shirt with a suit - something he still does, preferably in blue.
At home in Milan
Unlike many other giants in his industry, Armani was never at home in Paris but always in Milan. In Via Borgonuovo, a very elegant street, he owns several buildings. The headquarters is a palace from 1662. He shows new collections even in the basement of his house in Milan. Four times a year in Milan, twice for men's and twice for women's fashion, and twice a year in Paris. They all come. Since Lagerfeld's death in 2019, he is for many the most famous fashion designer in the world.
Born in Milan, the "Prince of Fashion," as they call him at home, was not actually born in Milan but an hour's drive away, in the small town of Piacenza. His mother valued clothing, even during the war years. But the greater influence in matters of fashion was probably his grandfather, who earned his living as a mask maker and wig maker at the city theater.
A true doctor instead of a fashion designer
Armani is proud of his origins. One of the few times he was seen in anything other than trousers, a pullover, and perhaps a jacket or a sacko in recent years was when the university of his hometown made him an honorary doctor last year: he wore a talar and a cape, as befits a doctoral robe. In his acceptance speech, he said, "This work is my life, a constant act of love." He added, smiling but businesslike, "I listen to the opinions of others, but then I make the decisions."
Almost, Armani could have become a real doctor. After graduating from high school, he studied medicine for two years. During his military service in a hospital, he realized that was not his world. A friend introduced him to the department store "La Rinascente," where he began as a window dresser and then became a buyer. He met Nino Cerruti, the old master of Italian men's fashion, in 1964. Without ever having learned the profession, he made his first designs for Cerruti. Then their paths diverged.
Fashion empire with over 9000 employees
In the mid-1970s, Armani and his partner Sergio Galeotti founded their own company: the Giorgio Armani SpA. It was the seed of a corporation that is worth billions today: the money came in first through fashion, then through cosmetics, watches, jewelry, and hotels. Since Galeotti's early death in 1985, the company has belonged only to Armani. He has lived, as far as we know, alone since then.
He went to the stock exchange never. He rejected all takeover offers. Today, the company consists of approximately 9250 employees worldwide, over 2000 stores, many of which are in prime locations, with an annual turnover of over 2.3 billion Euro. He looks down on "Fast Fashion" companies like H&M or Zara with their rapidly changing collections, which do indeed pose competition for him in the city centers. "A designer must create unique fashion that doesn't change every week," he says.
His trademark: He reduces fashion to the essentials. He removed padding and lining from the once uniform-like jackets. Collars became less stiff, and buttons were set below. He limits himself to timeless colors such as Grey, Beige, and White. Deep blue is his favorite color. "80% of what I do is discipline," he is known to say. "The rest is creativity. My limit is good taste."
Success in Hollywood
It's evident that he comes from men's fashion. His women's collections are no exception. Women's trousers have never been so feminine. Cultural scientist Barbara Vinken says, "Armani brought understated sexiness to fashion." This was also adopted in Hollywood. In 1980, he made his breakthrough by dressing Richard Gere in "American Gigolo" ("A Man for Certain Hours"). On the screen followed Kevin Costner ("The Untouchables"), Tom Cruise ("Mission Impossible"), and Leonardo DiCaprio ("The Wolf of Wall Street"). With the TV-series "Miami Vice," the T-shirt became a daily-wear suit.
For his fellow Italians, the somewhat older man is the epitome of the Italian gentleman par excellence. They forgave Armani the bribery of tax investigators and even that he outfitted the English national football team for a World Cup. The magazine of the "Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung" described him some time ago as the "Monolith of Fashion" and a "Rock in the terrible fast-paced business that knows no relatives, no permanence, no tradition."
Succession open
The disadvantage of uniqueness: It's unclear how the Armani brand will continue. So far, the "Prince" has refrained from designating a successor or successor. It's likely that he won't do it anymore, although the thought of what remains certainly intrigues him. When the newspaper "La Repubblica" asked him on his birthday, he replied, "My greatest dream is that Armani remains an expression of the Italian style, even in 50 or 100 years."
- Armani's jewelry line is displayed prominently in his Milan store located on Via Borgonuovo.
- mask makers in Piacenza, the town where Armani was born, are known for their craftsmanship, just like his grandfather.
- During Milan Fashion Week, people flock to see the latest collections from designers like Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint-Laurent, and Gianni Versace.
- Giorgio Armani's influence on the fashion industry is felt globally, with branches in cities like Paris, Milan, and even Piacenza.
- Italian designers such as Armani, Lagerfeld, Saint-Laurent, and Versace are celebrated for their distinctive styles that have shaped the fashion world.
- Armani's sackos, a signature piece from his early years, are a testament to his ability to reinvent traditional clothing with a modern twist.
- Mode is an essential part of Armani's life, as he referred to it as his lifework and a constant act of love during his acceptance speech for an honorary doctorate.
