Ready, prepare, enjoy your meal!
Starting late July, Paris will be the hub for the Olympic events, a time when you can even swim in the Seine! However, it may not be a walk in the park to find affordable hotel rooms or a table at a nice restaurant. To aid in your Parisian journey, here are tips from our restaurant critic at ntv.de and a French expert.
A while back, I visited Paris before the chaos set in, and the city looked like one giant construction site. Hardly any building or street was spared from repair or adaptation - a result of President Emmanuel Macron's renewal plan. The French are known for their exceptional handling of large-scale projects, with precision, skill, and punctuality.
However, booksellers along the Seine had to make way for construction and safety, but President Macron reversed the decision - he wanted the classical charm to coexist with modernity for the grand opening of the Olympic Games on July 26th. The city will shine, but the shine won't come cheap. Expect these Olympic Games to be a tourist nightmare on your wallet.
I recall the days when Paris was grappling with the pandemic, with hotels and restaurants open but tourists absent. That's when you could book a prime location hotel room for just 100 euros or get a sought-after table at a restaurant without weeks of reservation. The city breathed a sigh of relief.
Fast-forward to now, and visitors are rushing towards Paris like gold prospectors, with hopes of snatching the best hotels and restaurant tables. The Japanese, Chinese, Arabs, Brits, Germans, and especially the Americans from "Emily in Paris" are on the prowl, driving up prices without any restraints.
Prices for a double room have gone from bad to sky-high. My favorite budget hotel once cost me a meager 150 euros in the 7th arrondissement. Now, it's 350 euros, and even the luxurious Nobel Palace Crillon went from 800 euros three years ago to nearly 2000 euros. Be warned, the Olympics will only squeeze the hotels even harder.
Then there's the culinary aspect. Paris is currently delivering top-notch cuisine better than ever before. It's a residual effect of the pandemic that wiped out most of the tourist-oriented restaurants, forcing a re-examination of quality vs. profit. France's capital has never been so close to gourmet heaven.
To weather these Parisian Olympic days gastronomically and financially, here are my insider tips for eateries with mouth-watering delights:
Lava
Lava is a small eatery in the 11th arrondissement, near the Bastille. The owner, a young man from Reunion, serves Creole cuisine. The menu is concise yet flavorful. The ambiance is relaxed, and the prices remain gentle on your wallet.
Location: 10 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris
Le Comptoir du Relais
Le Comptoir du Relais is a quintessential Parisian bistro tucked in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The offerings include classic French fare and seasonal ingredients. The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere bustling and lively.
Location: 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris
Le Petit Marché
Le Petit Marché is a small restaurant in the 10th arrondissement, nestled near the Canal Saint-Martin. The owner hails from Brittany and serves Breton cuisine. The menu is seasonal, so dishes change often but are always scrumptious. The prices are affordable, and the vibe is cozy.
Location: 14 Rue de Lancry, 75010 Paris
Le Chateaubriand
Le Chateaubriand is a Michelin-starred restaurant in the 14th arrondissement. Head chef Inaki Aizpitarte specializes in contemporary French cuisine. The prices are higher than the others on this list, but the food is stunning. The atmosphere is poised and intimate.
Location: 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris
Le Chardenoux
Le Chardenoux is a classic Parisian bistro in the 14th arrondissement. The menu is traditional French, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. The prices are reasonable, and the atmosphere is warm and inviting.
Location: 12 Rue Chardenoux, 75014 Paris
Along Boulevard Saint-Germain, two budding innkeepers have recently opened their establishment, just in time for the Olympics. Their restaurant is named Lava, and Wilfried Romain is the one manning the stove. Wilfried? Yes, his father was German, therefore he spent his childhood in southwest Germany.
He perfected his culinary skills in Paris and Chile before becoming a household name through the cooking show, Top Chef. It's no surprise given his skillful preparation of sliced beef tenderloin with chimichurri, which currently ranks among the city's finest at a fair price of 18 euros. The yellow sea bass is grilled with miso and presented with green curry - remarkable! Chief Sommelier Rémi Badjoint ensures the finest wines are available at reasonable rates, from 4 to 7 pm, transforming Lava into a wine bar, complete with delectable cheese and ham boards from the southwest.
Brasserie Lipp, My Favorite Old-Time Restaurant
My all-time favorite hangout on Boulevard Saint-Germain is the writers' and flaneurs' brasserie. I adore it for two reasons: first, it's the embodiment of seeing and being seen, and nowhere else is it done with such flair. This historic brewery where Brasserie Lipp resides has always been my preferred spot. I feel the most comfortable sitting at a wooden table in the corner, opposite the aged mirrors displaying a rich patina. A notice reminds that dogs are not permitted outside or inside the restaurant. And it's a delightful spectacle when the classic Parisian ladies dress up elegantly and lead their older gentlemen here. As for the tourists, they're led upstairs - a place no Parisian would voluntarily frequent.
The downstairs dining area is the place to show off, where no Parisian would be led upstairs. And second, the food is tremendous. With its hearty cuisine and Alsatian undertones, the cooking is powerful and aromatic, never compromising on quality. My favorite dish: herring with warm potatoes, vinegar, mustard, and umami. Joel Dupuch's oysters from Cap Ferret are marvelous. And the grilled pork knuckle is unbeatable - even if it eliminates your chance of winning an Olympic sprint.
Jeanne-Aimée, a Must-Try Restaurant
Moving to the other side of the Seine, we observe a trend among young chefs who boldly venture out, renting small shops and offering quality dining experiences at lunch and dinner. One such example is Jeanne-Aimée, which showcases gourmet bistro cuisine next to the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette church near the major boulevards.
Owned by Chef de Cuisine Sylvain Parisot and his team, the group began with a vegetable garden in Yvelines south of Paris, then a city shop where they sold their produce. And recently, they've established this delightful restaurant, open only during the week.
The airy shop with its high ceiling and skylight is enchanting, as the chefs bustle about in the open kitchen. At lunchtime, they offer two menus at 36 euros and three menus at 42 euros, a bargain given the exceptional quality. You'll enjoy braised cabbage with sellerie reduction and grilled almonds or rockfish served in hazelnut butter, polenta foam, and young beans.
Assaf Granit, Israel's most renowned chef, has made Paris his home for years. Approximately a year and a half ago, Granit, the slightly tattooed and bearded chef with piercing eyes, debuted "Berta" in Berlin as a tribute to his grandmother. He then established "Boubalé" in the fashionable basement of the new luxury hotel Le Grand Mazarin in the Marais.
At Boubalé, Granit, the chef responsible for fusing Middle Eastern cooking with Israel, the Arab world, and Ashkenazi Jewish traditions, continues to follow his vision.
The restaurant's decor reflects a flamboyant and wild style with flowered wallpaper, snug sofas, and bright chairs. The atmosphere is lively, filled with buzzing music and energetic shouting in the kitchen. It's a festive ambiance brimming with delectable cuisine like Kaved Katzutz, featuring chicken livers with caramelized onions and pepper. Alternatively, savor Ptitim Risotto with spinach and red beet leaves. The Dorade with Indian spices, pine nuts, and yogurt sauce is also noteworthy.
À la Crêperie Beaubourg, Savor the Best Crêpes in Paris
Since 1997, my top choice for the best crêpes in Paris has been located at the small square next to Niki de Saint Phalle's colorful fountain. Here, it's a pleasure to dine al fresco - and, indeed, the crêpes are exceptional.
Crepes aren't the only reason I visit Crêperie Beaubourg. It's their galettes that win my heart. These crêpes are made from buckwheat flour, creating a heavenly combination of light, fluffy, and crispy. I love the classic "Quimper" with pork, cheese, eggs, mushrooms priced at 9.15 euros. However, there are more options like the "Touraine" with goat cheese, bacon, and crème fraîche, or the "Norvégienne" with salmon, tarragon, and salad. Don't forget about the delectable Nutella crêpe or the "Chataigne" with chestnut cream. And the tradition of serving cider in bottles from the Breton owners is still alive, with white cups adorned with a red rim.
For those eager to feel the Olympic fever in Paris during the summer, get ready with an awesome culinary adventure. Buon viaggio and bon appetit!
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Despite the inflated prices during the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris, the city's gastronomy scene continues to shine, offering a variety of budget-friendly options. For example, Lava in the 11th arrondissement serves Creole cuisine with affordable prices, while Le Comptoir du Relais in the 5th arrondissement offers classic French fare at reasonable prices.
The rising costs of hotels and restaurants in Paris during the Olympic Games may put a strain on the tourism industry, but the city's gastronomy remains a compelling reason for visitors to explore.
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