Luxury watches - Original or fake: How to recognize a genuine Rolex - and where to buy it
When searching for a Rolex on the Internet, one is bound to come across counterfeits at some point. Unfortunately, these are much easier to buy than the originals. One may have to wait for years to get a new Rolex. High-quality "replica watches" pose a real problem – unlike counterfeit watches from beach vendors, it is extremely difficult for an experienced eye to distinguish a copy from an original, especially on the secondary market. This guide should at least help with current models – in four steps.
The Way to a Real Rolex: The Right Marketplace
One can save oneself a lot of trouble by choosing the right marketplace for buying a used Rolex. The manufacturer recommends buying one exclusively from a jeweler. For new models, this can be postponed, as the stock is empty (learn more here). However, Rolex has offered certified pre-owned watches for some time now, initially only through Bucherer. There is no greater security. However, the prices for watches from the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) program are quite high (learn more here).
Trade platforms like Chrono24 or Chronext can be a bit cheaper. Chrono24 is a kind of dealer directory for commercial sellers or private individuals. A little research is necessary when buying a watch from them, as not every dealer is trustworthy. At Chrono24, pay attention to ratings, location, and the "Chrono24 Trusted Seller" label when you want to be absolutely sure.
Chronext itself deals with the watches, checks most of them, and provides a warranty. That's very safe, but, considering the prices, expensive. You can also buy a watch in the "RLX" forum, as the knowledgeable community would quickly spot any counterfeits and have them removed from the platform.
Even eBay comes into play for a purchase, as the platform offers an authenticity check. However, this does not apply to every ad, so pay close attention to whether this service is included with your desired watch. If not, the trade on eBay is only slightly different from offers on eBay Classifieds, the cheapest but riskiest option for luxury watches.
A purchase through eBay Classifieds is possible, but the number of counterfeits is highest here. Pay close attention to the seller, search for any business locations, and save the ad and its images for safety – in case of problems. In general, "Buy the Seller, not the Watch," meaning "Buy the Seller, not the Watch." This means that one should not only examine the Rolex carefully but also the person selling it.
A significant red flag are unusually low prices from private sellers who claim not to know the value of the watch. Honestly, anyone who is listing a Rolex knows its price. There are no bargains!
A Rolex in Hand: Obvious Fakes
The good news: Even laymen can spot a bad counterfeit right away. If the seconds hand does not glide over the dial but jumps clearly from second to second, keep your distance. The only exception: You want to buy an Oysterquartz – these are the only Rolex watches whose mechanism is actually battery-powered and whose second hand does not move smoothly.
Checking further on the watch: Examine if the bezel, the raised rim around the dial, bears an engraving and how finely it is worked. For older models, the bezel is blank, while newer models display a prominent "ROLEXROLEXROLEX"-engraving, interrupted by a crown on 12 hours and a series number on 6 hours. This series number is also important and should match exactly in the watch papers. Avoid watches without papers if you are not absolutely sure. Warning: The papers of a Rolex change irregularly. Ensure that the warranty card matches the production year. "Counterfeit papers" have not been in existence since the mid-2000s. More about this in the blog "100percentpassion".
Additionally, check the print quality on the dial and the tactility of the crystal, if it is rotatable. The print of a Rolex is always absolutely precise, typographical errors are as rare as hen's teeth. The click of a crystal, for example on the Submariner model, is firm and clearly defined, yet the bezel can still be easily rotated.
Then take a look at the case back: If you find an engraving here, either hold a Sea-Dweller model in your hands or, very likely, a counterfeit. The popular engraving "Winner 24 Daytona" should be avoided! The same applies to glass backs, through which the movement can be seen. There is a German watchmaker who actually produces these backs, but they are original only in exceptional cases, such as the 2023 edition of the Platinum-Daytona.
Now look at the band. Are there sharp edges? Unnecessary spacings? All bad signs. A Rolex band clicks not at all and the end pieces, which directly touch the watch, should show no play.
Up to here everything is good – the secrets of a Rolex
Begin examining details where a counterfeiter often fails. On 6 hours, the glass of the watch – we are still talking about current models – should display a crown. Turn the watch towards the light to spot the small crownlet. The "laser crown" is very fine, often not visible, but always present. In very rare cases, the crown is not on 6 hours, but at another location. This can occur if a watch was in the workshop – but, as stated, this is extremely rare.
Listen carefully next – especially for watch movements of the 3130 series, you should hear a faint ringing, assuming complete silence. This is unique and not audible in counterfeits. Unfortunately, this charming feature is not present in all watches – and therefore only helpful when specific movements are expected in the watch. A consistent ticking should always be audible, however. Generally, it is 28,800 half-swings per hour, or eight ticks per second.
The color of the numbers in the dial insert can also be an indicator for a counterfeit watch. Rolex plats the ceramic-inlayed dials either with platinum or it is gold. Platinum reflects light slightly silver, appears grayish without much light. A watch with bright, almost white numbers is less likely to be from Switzerland.
A glance at the pointers is worth it – especially when luminous material is involved. Pay attention to a depth effect at places where luminous material has been added. Overly smooth pointers are not a good sign. A modern Rolex should glow blue in the dark, not green. The easiest way to test this is with a pocket lamp. Briefly hold the watch over it, then cover it with your hand and observe the color.
If the watch has a date, make sure it is exactly in the middle of the window. If a Rolex has a magnifying glass, as almost all of them do, the magnification should be approximately 2.5 times. Additionally, Rolex reflects the bottom of the magnifying glass, which often shows up as a blue tint in counterfeits.
Inside a Rolex, there's much to see
Although Rolex – as mentioned – rarely uses glass bottoms, the works are worth looking at. Ninety percent of counterfeits are revealed when opening the watch. The problem: You either need the right tools for this or a friendly watchmaker with the appropriate equipment. If it's a "Super Replica," the counterfeiters will also try to replicate the original as closely as possible in this regard. The Rolex homepage is your only help in this case. Compare photos of the mechanism that works in the watch in question with the mechanism in the watch in front of you. Pay particular attention to the eloxed gears, the bridge, the screws on the bridge (which hold the watch in place), and the color of the spiral spring, which should be blue.
Mining Field Rolex Vintage
All tips in this article are first and foremost not a guarantee that a watch with the mentioned features is actually authentic and secondly apply to newer models. The authenticity of so-called "vintage" watches can often be determined, the older they are, with great difficulty. If you are not an expert in this field, seek help in forums such as "RLX" or consult an expert on vintage Rolex watches. Buying popular models from the pre-millennium era as a layman is the purest mining field. Extensive research and expert help are absolutely necessary.
- Although platforms like Chrono24 and Chronext offer a variety of Rolex watches, it's important to be cautious when buying from private sellers. Unusually low prices from individuals claiming not to know the watch's value should raise red flags - anyone listing a Rolex is aware of its worth.
- When examining a Rolex watch for authenticity, pay close attention to the seconds hand. If it jumps clearly from second to second, it's likely a counterfeit, except for Oysterquartz models whose mechanism is battery-powered.
- For those interested in vintage Rolex watches, the task of authenticating them can be extremely difficult. It's highly recommended to seek expert help or consult forums such as "RLX" to ensure the watch is genuine.
