- If the guest smells, do you need a scent dress code?
Phew, how pungently perfumed! Many people might often feel like saying that they've had enough of their fellow citizens. Now, a prominent restaurateur is openly and honestly saying that he thinks some people go overboard with heavy, sweet perfume clouds when going out.
Celebrity chef Duc Ngo would prefer not to have guests in his restaurants who smell too strongly. He wrote on Instagram that strong perfumes are unwanted in his sushi and seafood restaurants.
"I like nice scents too, but sometimes it's just too much," he said in the post. "So please be considerate of us chefs and the other guests and reduce your perfume when you come to us. Thank you."
Until now, this rule of etiquette regarding perfume has been tacitly assumed. Other fine dining establishments have had such guidelines for some time. For example, the "RyuGin" in Tokyo (three Michelin stars) has a perfume ban, along with a dress code and phone rules. In Germany, it was previously more of an unstated code of conduct, with people presumably knowing what might disturb other guests and restrict their sensory experiences.
"For a visit to a restaurant where the experience of taste and smell is particularly important, I would refrain from applying too much perfume," said Raphael Reichardt, restaurant manager and head sommelier of the starred restaurant "Tim Raue" in Berlin, recently to dpa, before Ngo's statement.
The so-called "no fragrance" debate is back. It has occupied many office communities and friend groups in the past and keeps resurfacing. In the 80s, for instance, restaurateurs in the US complained about patchouli-heavy scents or wanted to ban the very intense "Giorgio Beverly Hills" from their establishments.
Ngo's initiative receives positive feedback. Rapper Kool Savas wrote "Mega!" underneath, Mario Barth "Yeeeeeeees". And Ilka Bessin, known as Cindy from Marzahn, gave two thumbs up.
Finally, someone dares to make a statement, commented a user, suggesting that many people might not even be aware of their own overbearingness - motto: Let's go out for a fancy dinner, so we should wear extra perfume. This can ruin many a meal with clouds from the neighboring table.
Even the industry association for body care and detergents has already pointed out that people who regularly use a certain scent should apply it sparingly. The sense of smell quickly adapts and one perceives it less.
Compared to some animals, the human sense of smell is not particularly strong, although we can distinguish more than 1000 scents like floral, sweaty, rotten, sharp. The tongue has around 2000 taste buds that work like tiny detectors. The basic sensations are sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and the perception of umami (savory-waxy like glutamate, cheese, meat, proteins).
Everyday experience and research confirm that ambient scents can significantly influence a comprehensive taste experience. In short: Most aromas come from the nose.
The history of perfume culture is long. In affluent societies, the power of perfumes has increased significantly in recent decades. Just as people tend to listen to music relatively loudly through headphones, many also expect a high intensity from fragrances. Today's mostly synthetic scent molecules deliver this effortlessly.
Since the 1990s, the perfume world has increasingly embraced and popularized sweet, indulgent notes, as formulated by the Fragrance Foundation, an organization backed by leading cosmetics companies.
Trend towards Gourmand Perfumes
"Angel" by Thierry Mugler (1992), with its sweet chocolate notes, was the first widely popular gourmand perfume. These products "smell delightfully of our favorite desserts, providing the olfactory backdrop of a pastry shop in just a few sprays." This trend was also made appealing to men with the launch of Paco Rabanne's "1 Million" Eau de Toilette (2008).
During the 2000s, the Western market also adapted to the Middle East, for instance by incorporating woody oud notes, as noted by the Foundation. Thus, the cosmetics world, influenced by Arabic tastes, has become more opulent.
Trend towards Opulence - Number of Sprays "A Matter of Taste"
"Indeed, many brands are expanding their portfolios with fragrances that have a higher concentration," says Andreas Fuhlisch, CEO of the Cosmetics Association VKE. "These are usually marked as 'Intense', 'Extrait', or 'Absolut'."
The use of perfume is "very personal," both in terms of scent direction and amount. The number of sprays is "a matter of taste," says Fuhlisch. For many people, spraying perfume is a unique and special ritual. "In my opinion, perfume should always be applied in a way that does not bother others. Therefore, I can understand The Duc Ngo's request."
In light of the ongoing discussion about perfume etiquette in dining establishments, the Hospitality industry is actively encouraging patrons to be considerate with their fragrances. This is particularly important in fine dining restaurants like RyuGin in Tokyo, where the taste and smell experience are highly valued.
The trend in the perfume world, particularly since the 1990s, has been leaning towards gourmand and opulent scents, with fragrances like "Angel" by Thierry Mugler and "1 Million" Eau de Toilette by Paco Rabanne becoming popular. However, the hospitality industry advises patrons to use these scents sparingly to ensure they do not disrupt the sensory experience for others.
