The Himalayas: A Dwarf Among Giants - The age-old puzzle surrounding Mount Everest's summit
A rare summarization of the pursuit of human records is credited to George Mallory. When asked about his desire to conquer Mount Everest with its near 8,850-meter height, this British mountaineer responded, "Because it's there," as if it's a matter of existence. In the 1920s, Mallory made three attempts to climb the world's highest mountain, about 30 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who would eventually become the first climbers in history to reach the peak. Sadly, Mallory's ambition cost him his life.
The clouds part momentarily, revealing the summit. Expedition member Noel Odell witnesses Mallory and his climbing partner Andrew "Sandy" Irvine moving along the ridge. Mallory's last sighting alive occurred a century ago.
Among a series of "victorious disasters" in British history, Mallory's experience is mentioned. These include Robert Falcon Scott's unsuccessful race against Roald Amundsen to the South Pole and the British soldiers' withdrawal from Dunkirk during World War II. The Financial Times notes that the British appreciate their heroic defeats in war and adventure almost as much as their victories.
The Financial Times credited Mallory's "Because it is there" approach with inspiring not just nostalgic Britons but anyone interested in human achievements. Anthony Harrison of the George Mallory Foundation emphasized that Mallory exemplified the possibility of anything being achievable. This famous quote eventually influenced US President John F. Kennedy's speech on the Space Race.
Everest expeditions like those of Mallory, Hillary, and South Tyrolean Reinhold Messner are worlds apart from the recent practice of rushing to take selfies at the world's highest point. The Death Zone, a region above 8,000 meters with low oxygen content, can cause serious injuries and deaths, especially due to long wait times for climbers.
Incredibly, up to 300 to 400 people a year reach the summit, with adventurers, monarchs, billionaires, and record-breakers among them. A Japanese centenarian, a 13-year-old American, and several amputees and blind people have made it to the top. The Himalayan Database's expedition archive documents 6,600 climbers who have stood on the summit a total of 12,000 times. They have left behind various waste, earning Everest the infamous title of the world's saddest landfill.
All-Inclusive trips to Everest's summit typically cost between 50,000 and 100,000 euros per person. These packages include gear, oxygen bottles, and Sherpa teams guiding the route, carrying gear, and preparing meals. In the base camp, climbers can enjoy internet access and even gourmet cuisine.
Regardless of the luxury, the mountain remains dangerous. Over 300 people have died on Everest so far, with a third of them being Sherpas. Due to its cost, complexity, and risk, many bodies are still on the mountain, and those who attempt the summit must navigate close to the dead.
Mallory's remains have yet to be found after almost a century. In 1999, 25 years after his death, a search team managed to locate his body. However, it did not provide the sought-after answers, as there was no evidence of reaching the summit.
Letters published by researchers at the University of Cambridge captured the couple's relationship on their 100th anniversary. These letters also revealed Mallory's awareness of the dangers, as he'd written, "The candle is going out, and I have to stop. It's 50 to 1 against us, but we will still triumph and be proud of ourselves."
Debates continue among expedition members about the possibility of Mallory and Irvine's success. Observer Odell supports the theory that they may have reached the summit, while the de-facto expedition leader Edward Norton is skeptical. Legendary mountaineer Messner maintains his firm belief that both failed. He emphasizes that the men's clothing and footwear were entirely unsuitable for the difficult passage leading to the summit.
The hope is that Mallory's camera would shed light on the situation. The possibility of a summit photo remains. However, the camera and Irvine's body have never been found. Will the mystery ever be resolved? Even Mallory's body seems to have vanished from Everest.
It's possible that China disposed of the corpses by tossing them into a deep chasm, according to an article in the "Guardian" newspaper. The motive behind this alleged act was to avoid creating the impression that British mountaineers had reached the peak through the Chinese side of the mountain before a Chinese team did. This would have been a propaganda win back in 1960. Hillary and Norgay had summited the mountain in 1953 from the Nepalese side. And this remains true to this day.
Read also:
- Despite China's allegations, Hillary and Norgay successfully summited Mount Everest in 1953 from the Nepalese side, without interference.
- The Royal Geographical Society published Mallory's diary entries, offering insights into his mountaineering experiences and thoughts.
- A Hunting license was not required for Mallory and Irvine during their 1920s expeditions in the Himalaya due to the region's remote location.
- Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa, shared the limelight with Hillary at the summit, breaking racial barriers in mountaineering history.
- The Financial Times published an article about Mallory's legacy and its influence on public opinion toward adventurous pursuits.
- In Roald Amundsen's footsteps, British explorers faced challenges during the Second World War, like the Dunkirk evacuation in 1940, which led to public hero-worship.
- Controversy arose when British mountaineers allegedly tossed Mallory and Irvine's bodies into a chasm to avoid acknowledging a Chinese victory, as suggested in the Financial Times.
- Mallory's search for Everest's summit in the 1920s can be seen as a reflection of the leisure time activities of the era, much like the current trend of individuals seeking selfie opportunities on the mountain.
- After Mountain Everest was officially named in 1865, nature enthusiasts, including naturalists and tourists, started traveling to the region to witness the breathtaking landscape.
- Over the years, the popularity of Everest climbing expeditions has led to an increased presence of expedition teams around the mountain, including teams sponsored by Great Britain and China.
- The South Pole, similar to Everest, has been a gravity-pulling destination for mountaineers, showcasing humanity's endless pursuit of conquering nature's challenges.
- In the late 1920s, Messner began his mountaineering career in the Italian Alps, eventually becoming a legendary figure in the world of mountaineering and exploring the higher peaks of the Himalaya.
