navigating our way through the meteorological conditions
(Paraphrased) Ben Kindler shares "Seasonal Feasts" with 70 of his finest dishes. Fruits and vegetables are the main attraction, showcasing whatever nature offers at the moment and ideally from your backyard or local market. Meat and seafood are occasional treats.
Freiburg chef Ben Kindler reflects nostalgically in his fourth cookbook, drawing inspiration from his childhood experiences while celebrating healthy, straightforward, and family-friendly cooking. His new publication, "Seasonal Feasts," offers 70 recipes for easy, flavorful dishes: appetizers, soups, sides, mains, and desserts. "These recipes aim to excite you - for the rhythm of nature; for thoughtful use of its resources; for a purposeful and healthy life without dogma; for quick, hassle-free, and delicious meals; for the beauty and variety that surrounds us; and... for imagination, colors, and aromas," Kindler writes.
The essence is appreciating our food sources and the meals we eat. Our eating habits have evolved to embrace mindful consumptions and returning to an age-old practice of eating in harmony with nature. This trend remains popular, and with better cookbooks to guide us, the "Seasonal Feasts" compiled by Südwest Verlag is a valuable addition. Nature's seasonal cycles lay the foundation for nourishing and enjoyable meals, often being more budget-friendly too.
It's sometimes comforting to pause and reflect on our past, recalling childhood memories of home-cooked meals, everyday cuisine, and special occasion dinners. The belief that older generations spent the climate and environment's resources thoughtlessly isn't entirely accurate. In 1960, a kilogram of meat cost five times less than it does today, and was sourced from animals reared on small farms with pasture. Now, lower-cost meat is derived from industrial farming methods.
Many of us remember that infamous "Geiz ist geil" (greed is good) advertising. Despite time passing, this mentality persists. Meat can still be bought today that's produced the same way it was in 1960, labeled "grass-fed." It isn't significantly more expensive than it was then.
Timing is Key
Kindler fondly recalls his grandmother who, wearing an apron, cooked delicious dishes for him. He also reflects on his mother, who instilled an appreciation for good food and quality products within him. "It's peculiar how, with a slightly clarified outlook, you come to appreciate certain privileges. I don't mean wealth or luxury. Instead, I am grateful for a sense of rootedness, connection to nature, deep comprehension of life cycles, and joy," he writes in the introduction.
Regardless of the weather - stormy, snowy, hot, or rainy - Kindler has a recipe to suit your season and mood.
Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter
Kindler organizes his book by the seasons, guiding you through what's plentiful in supermarkets or local markets. His focus is simplicity, mirrored in the straightforward, attractive photographs. You'll find familiar dishes from German and Central European cuisines, but with an innovative twist. Grandma's rhubarb compote gets a delightful topping of ginger crumble, the pumpkin risotto gets a spicy kick from chili oil, and the beetroot tartare is enhanced with a miso mayonnaise - bringing a dash of Asian or Mediterranean flavors.
All recipes are straightforward, suitable for daily use, and using affordable, readily-available ingredients. Kindler's "Seasonal Feasts" is grounded in an understanding of nature's cycles. Within, he shares insights on what each season means to him and how it influences his cooking: asparagus in spring, replenishing and lack of cabbage; summer evoking memories of strawberries and swimming; in autumn, Kindler's dishes become richer, more aromatic, and warming; and winter, a bit frustrating but deserving of extra calories to keep warm - something easily burned off during springtime activities.
In preparation for exploring seasonal recipes, Kindler tackles essential kitchen basics in a practical and straightforward manner. These range from kitchen equipment and staple ingredients like rice, oil, spices, and dressings, to bread. Kindler's suggestions are clear, brief, and concise - perfect for beginners and advanced cooks alike. These fundamental chapters make "Seasonal Feasts" an organized and practical cookbook, building your culinary toolkit for a well-rounded and sustainable cooking experience.
Following a decade in the high-end dining scene, Kindler decided to establish a culinary education institution in Freiburg in 2010 due to his enjoyment of spreading his sources of inspiration with others. Now he's frequently shifting between gastronomic endeavors and parental duties, whipping up meals for pals or refined guests, his wife, and his five kids of varying ages - from kindergarten to nearly on the brink of adolescence. "At times, it can get pretty chaotic, and my cookbook was developed just that way, perched between wooden playthings and matchbox cars in Fiete's room, or sandwiched between the entrance and the stove, amid peeling potatoes, homework assignments, and examining order lists. Our expansive dining table serves as the nucleus of our home, a command center, a family meeting place, a desk, and the platform for countless conversations with friends, enjoyable evenings, discussions, stirring up the world, laughter, camaraderie, and innovative thinking."
Poached Pear with Ganache Sauce (Autumn)
Preparation:
Preparation time: 15 minutes; Cooking time: 15 minutes
Strip the pears, retaining the stem. Bring water, sugar, cinnamon stick, and cloves to a boil in a pot. Add the pears and gently simmer for approximately 10 minutes. Remove and let cool. Reduce the syrup and use it later to glaze the pears.
To create the ganache sauce, warm the cream in a pot. Finely shred the chocolate and dissolve it in the warm cream over low heat.
Arrange the glazed pears on a plate and smother them with ganache sauce. Crush the pink peppercorns in a mortar and scatter them on top of the pears. Serve with one or two scoops of ice cream.
For assessing doneness...Gently insert a knife tip into the pears, they should still provide slight resistance.
Winter Vegetable Stew with Chickpeas (Winter)
Preparation:
Preparation time: 30 minutes; Cooking time: 40-50 minutes
Soak the dried chickpeas in an adequate amount of water for about 8 hours. Drain the water and cook the chickpeas in a pot with water (no salt) for 20-30 minutes. Alternatively, drain and rinse canned chickpeas. Cube the potatoes and cut them into 2 x 2 cm pieces. Peel and finely chop the onions and garlic. Cube or slice the celery and carrots.
Warm the olive oil and butter in a pot over medium heat, sauté the carrots and celery for approximately 2 minutes. Then add the onions and garlic, sauté for 1 more minute. Deglaze with white wine. Add the potatoes and fill the pot with vegetable broth. Add the bay leaf to the pot and let the soup simmer for about 25 minutes.
Simultaneously, chop the savoy cabbage and black cabbage into finger-wide pieces and add them in the final 10 minutes to simmer. Add the chickpeas and season the soup with salt, Espelette pepper, and olive oil.
Corn-Fed Chicken Breast (Upgrade)
Preparation:
Preparation time: 10 minutes; Cooking time: 15 minutes
Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Season with salt and pepper and coat the skin side in flour.
Preheat the oven to 120 °C (convection). Heat the oil in a pan over high heat and first sear the meat on the skin side for approximately 2 minutes, then turn and sear for about 1 minute on the flesh side. Then bake in the preheated oven for 12-15 minutes.
Melt the butter with the herb sprigs in the pan and let it froth. Add the corn-fed chicken breasts and cook for about 2 minutes. Baste with the butter. Finish with sea salt flakes.
Pairs well with the following dishes:Lentil Dal with Pak Choi (page 119),Mixed Lentil Salad with Sheep's Cheese (page 73),Creamy Polenta with Summer Vegetables and Herb Pesto (page 81),Crispy Jerusalem Artichoke with Sweet Chili Mayonnaise (page 146),Cabbage Noodles (page 150),Crispy Rice with Vegetables (page 107),Baked Cauliflower with Tahini Sauce (page 104).
Savor the culinary delights all year round! Warm wishes from Heidi Driesner.
The "Seasonal Feasts" cookbook by Ben Kindler has garnered positive reviews, with many praising its simple and affordable recipes that are in harmony with nature's seasons. The recipes are not only delicious but also connect individuals back to the roots of cooking and the appreciation of food sources.
Reading through the reviews, it's clear that Kindler's cookbook has been a game-changer for many, encouraging mindful consumptions and a return to eating in harmony with nature. The diversity of dishes, ranging from German and Central European cuisines to Asian and Mediterranean flavors, has also been commended for promoting creativity in the kitchen.
