In a striking resemblance, Namibia bears a likeness to Germany.
Cold German Lagers, German Street Names, and German News: Swakopmund's Visitors Might Feel at Home from Germany.
It's almost like being in Germany: Pfalz-style buildings lined up with wooden houses - and that's in Namibia. The street names are familiar too: Lüderitz Street is home to the Woermannhaus, constructed for a German shipping magnate in 1894. Just a short walk away, you'll find the Old Magistrate's Court, the former Imperial District Court, located at Garrison and Railway Streets corner. Swakopmund's landmark, the Hohenzollern House, was once a German colonial ruler's lavish home. Strolling through the Namibian coastal town is like stepping back in time. Tourists have a choice between classic Hotel Hansa, Hotel Eberwein's colonial charm, Pension Deutsches Haus, or Hotel Zum Kaiser. In the evening, German beers flow on tap at the Brauhaus, offering up a plate of pork knuckles, pork hocks, and dumplings. Catch the "Tagesschau" on TV at the Am Zoll residence.
The Adler Pharmacy is located near the German bookstore, evangelical church, German kindergarten, Goldschmiede Engelhard, and Hofmeyer School Home. The German Cultural Council, located in the former German colony of Namibia, supports around 25 German associations, including German men's choirs and carnival clubs in Swakopmund. There's probably no other city with a stronger presence of German colonial heritage.
This Atlantic coastal city is known for its dramatic seaside promenade and its German connection. Outsiders often joke about it being the "southernmost North Sea resort." However, just over one percent of Namibia's 2.6 million population are of German descent. The city's population - approximately 67,000 strong - includes around 1,200 people with German ancestry. Swakopmund is a popular stopover for tourists going on safari. The still visible cultural dominance of the former German imperialists is upsetting for the black majority, who lived through the genocide committed by them 120 years ago. At Café Anton, located in Hotel Schweizerhaus's basement, the grandson of German immigrants from Namibia, Raimar von Hase, discusses dialogues between white and black Namibians.
German immigrants have been meeting with representatives of black ethnic groups - mainly the Herero and Nama - for four years. The descendants of the genocide's victims, who endured brutal suppressions, are being addressed by these meetings. The German and Namibian governments have long been negotiating a proposed reconciliation agreement that includes €1.1 billion in German financial aid for development projects in Namibia. However, adopting the declaration is still pending.
Protests against the Naval Memorial
Von Hase's family's past is entwined with the colonial era. He shares his family's story; his grandfather, from East Westphalia, moved to Namibia in 1910, bought farmland, and started a livestock farm. Von Hase took over the farm, raising thousands of sheep, cows, and goats. He feels no remorse, saying, "It's all too long ago."
Across Café Anton stands the Marine Memorial, right in front of the city's museum and lighthouse. It commemorates the German marine expeditionary corps that took part in the Nama and Herero rebellion suppression in 1904.
A German soldier stands atop a massive rock base, rifle pointed toward the city center of Swakopmund, and toward the mass grave of Herero and Nama located on the city's outskirts. For descendants of the Nama and Herero, this is an insult, says activist Laidlaw Peringanda, an advocate for the creation of genocide memorials in Swakopmund. Several Nama and Herero protests against the memorial have been halted by authorities, and the memorial’s been defaced with red paint.
Peringanda, 49, resides in a small brick house on Swakopmund's city outskirts. Here, he maintains a genocide museum, the country's first. However, at just six square meters, the label "museum" feels more like a dream. An exhibition of historical photos and a few history books is held within its small space. "I want to show visitors what happened then, so we can learn from the past," says Peringanda. He also wishes to promote intercultural exchanges. Peringanda's forefathers hail from the Herero and Nama tribes, who faced German troops during the genocide. His great-grandfather and family members were interned in the Swakopmund concentration camp.
Suspecting that their remains might be buried in the unattended mass graves on Swakopmund's outskirts, Peringanda notices that the German marine soldier's rifle directs towards these desolate plots. The area is barren, situated near the neatly-kept city cemetery where many Germans are laid to rest. A multitude of small sand hills line the area, with rough stones from the side of the road serving as makeshift, nameless markers.
At the entrance of the barren field, a humble stone monument commemorates the thousands of innocent lives lost due to German violence. The city council maintains the city cemetery daily, ensuring the greenery is well-watered and the paths are neatly raked. However, no one seems to take responsibility for preserving the unmarked graves, laments Peringanda.
Four times a year, he and his team of volunteers work to restore the sand mounds in their own initiative. Yet, it's a futile effort. Swakopmund is always windy, and the relentless coastal breeze ensures that the graves remain shallow. Peringanda sighs as he points to the dog tracks in the sand, "They dig for bones." All he yearns for is more respect, dignity, and harmonious peace between the Whites and the Blacks of Swakopmund. The deep-rooted fear of change among the German Namibians holds many back, he explains. "Instead, we should unite and search for a peaceful resolution." This sentiment echoes with Raimar von Hase's philosophy - communication is the key to reconciliation.
The historical Hohenzollern House, a symbol of German colonial rule, still stands as a Swakopmund landmark. Visitors can also explore the rich history of German associations supported by the German Cultural Council in Swakopmund, an area boasting a strong presence of German colonial heritage.
