Culinary Climate Change with Imperfections
Green, fresh and tasty - with this simple recipe, the chain Dean&David lures more and more branches out of the ground in Germany. Salads, Currys and Bowls promise light enjoyment. However, the taste test disappoints.
It's an ordinary evening before the basement of a shopping mall in Berlin's western part. Here is one of the around 200 branches of Dean&David in Germany. In 2007, Munich's David Baumgartner started with a single salad bar, and the chain has since expanded throughout Europe - driven by the green spirit, without disposable items and with reusable packaging, it's supposed to be Fast-Food with a clear conscience.
This starts with the store's interior, which features wooden stools and tables, nice lamps, and employees behind the counter wearing sustainable clothing, such as aprons made of recycled material, as Dean&David boasts in their self-description. "Change for better" is the chain's slogan, meaning "The Turn to the Better" - at a gastronomic chain, the food should be the main focus.
Signs of Freshness?
The ordering process takes place at the counter, and the customer is then given a buzzer, which informs them when their dishes are ready. On this day, there is only a reduced selection two hours before closing time, with only one Curry left, and Granatapfelkerns and other small items long gone. This could be a good sign that everything is freshly cooked and then simply eaten. However, we don't find any further evidence of excessive freshness in the course of the test.
The problems begin with the "Red Thai Chicken Curry" for 10.45 Euro. Like all dishes here, it's attractively arranged, but it lacks any Curry characteristics when tasted closely. So, the classic dish has been cooked for a long time, and all components have melded together. Here, however, various cold components like red cabbage, Edamame beans, and cilantro are combined with undercooked chicken in lower quality, forming a warm sauce made of Curry paste and with a meager selection of overcooked vegetables. Carrots and onions are about it. Additionally, the sauce has an unusual taste, almost soap-like - it's a sensory challenge. The black sesame rice can't save the taste either.
Disappointing Signature Dish
A somewhat disappointing attempt is the "Chicken Vitality Salad" for 12.95 Euro, even though it's never better than comparable products from the competition. The lettuce leaves are fresh and crispy, but the large tomato wedges are poor quality and insignificant. The feta cheese is generously scattered on top and tastes good and strong, but the chicken is reminiscent of warehouse-quality, frozen chicken - a healthy impression may not want to assert itself here. The rucola dressing, however, works and gives the salad a rounded and savory flavor profile.
The good impression leaves the guest completely at the signature dish of the chain, where the "California Poke Bowl" (15.45 Euro), which is both disappointing in terms of taste and product freshness. The distinct fish odor is noticeable even upon serving, which remains unpleasant during consumption. The so-called "Norwegian Premium Salmon" praised and served in large chunks lacks any premium qualities. The fish lies on a bed of Jasmin rice and is then, as is common with bowls, accompanied by various vegetables, most of which we already know from other dishes: Red cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, spring onions, here mango is added. The individual elements do not connect with the fish that seems unrefreshed. In addition, there are too many strongly flavored roasted onions scattered over the dish, making the bowl overly aromatized and preventing an impression of lightness or even healthy eating. This dish is a disappointment.
The basic idea of the chain is indeed correct: To offer a healthy alternative to the fast food giants with their grills and fried foods. However, they need to work on both product freshness and using better qualities at Dean&David, so that "Change for Better" does not just blow up as a marketing slogan but also appears on the plate.
In the quest for improvements, Dean&David could focus on enhancing the taste and quality of their signature dishes, like the "California Poke Bowl," to better showcase their commitment to nutrition and gastronomy. Additionally, ensuring a consistent level of freshness and quality in all their ingredients, from the "Norwegian Premium Salmon" to the vegetables, could make their promise of "Change for Better" more tangible in every bite.
