Celebrate Milk Day - Shift in appetite for dairy: From cultural norms to moral conversations
Do milk enhanced men feel merry? This lively catchphrase from post-war West Germany now feels stale. Together with those who consciously eat less meat, there are growing numbers of German citizens who, due to their beliefs, drink less cow's milk.
Experts observe more than a transitory trend in this abstinence. As it stands, "milk reducers" are no longer a fringe group, as per the Society for Consumer Research. These days, food is about much more than just nutrients, and cow's milk occasionally experiences a tarnished image. So, on Milk Day, June 1st, there lingers several questions surrounding this beverage.
Regarding figures, liquid milk in Germany is on a consistent downfall. In 2023, according to statistics from the Federal Agency for Agriculture and Food, the per-capita consumption was approximately 46 kilograms. A decade ago, the figure was 60 kilograms, according to the agency. The Federal Statistical Office still ranks Germany as the biggest producer of cow's milk in the EU, and the dairy industry remains a highly profitable sector in German agriculture. What's the explanation for this development?
Social debates and political pressure are at play here. "We are progressing extremely in the direction of non-animal-derived fundamental foods in Germany," says Jana Rückert-John, a professor of the sociology of food at the University of Fulda. "Meat and all other animal products are under intense criticism from multiple directions." It's about animal welfare, CO2 footprint, sustainability, and climate protection. Moreover, there's political pressure on this issue. However, Rückert-John sees a difference, and it's in the method of creating these products. "For meat, animals are killed."
Issues like traditional animal husbandry and high-performance dairy cows, which rarely see their calves after birth and often have lives shorter than five years, concern more than just vegans. According to the latest nutrition report, an astounding eighty percent of buyers care about how an animal lives. West Germans are more attentive to this when selecting their food than East Germans, and more women than men expressed concern. Nearly half of them have already bought vegan or vegetarian alternatives, most often plant-based substitutes for milk and milk products.
Is there an undercover cultural war over milk? Rückert-John would refrain from endorsing that notion. "The debate is also a reflection of a prosperous society," she elucidates. In Germany, there are numerous milk substitutes available. "Eating and drinking are basic needs - and yet so much more," she continues, quoting the government's latest nutrition strategy. It's about enjoyment, connectedness, tradition, culture, and being together. Food is frequently used "as a form of self-realization."
Raw milk is the primary target of buyers' restraint, while the drop in consumption for cheese produced from cow's milk is less considerable. Is there a specific logic to this occurrence? "Dairy products distance themselves from the original product," remarks the researcher. "It's like viewing a whole animal roasted or fish sticks and chicken nuggets." With food processing, issues become intangible.
Germany is far from having implemented a milk ban. According to surveys undertaken by the Society for Consumer Research, nearly 93% of domestic households continue to buy whole or fresh milk, though at a slightly lower level.
The German Nutrition Society (DGE) modified their recommendations for milk and milk products this year. They now recommend consuming two portions per day instead of three. "That amounts to one cup of milk and one yogurt or one yogurt and a slice of cheese," clarifies DGE spokesperson Antje Gahl. Why the change? "In the updated recommendations, we haven't only prioritized health, but also considered environmental effects such as greenhouse gas emissions and land use, such as pasture areas," she adds. Eating habits were also considered.
Should we be concerned about the lower cow's milk consumption? Not necessarily, underlines Gahl. Dietary habits shift as time passes. "Over the past few years, there has been a surge toward more vegetarian or vegan diets," she explains. Each generation dines differently. "In the post-war period, it was all about satiety, followed by the fitness and slimness trend. Today, it's about more than merely fulfilling needs." Skepticism toward milk is not a new phenomenon. Discussions about its health benefits and tolerability have always circulated, and cow's milk intolerance is an instance illustrative of this, reveals the nutrition specialist.
What can we make of this reduction in milk? It offers high-quality protein, calcium, vitamin B2 and B12, vitamin A, iron, magnesium, zinc, and iodine. Plant-based drinks are unable to keep up with this. As such, the DGE expert refers to these substitutes not as alternatives but as supplements for cow's milk. There's little rigidity in this matter. "Cow's milk and dairy products are healthy for adults in the right portions. They're not necessarily essential," concludes Gahl.
Additionally, caution is advised for children and teenagers. Consumption, in this case, is advised to follow the DGE guidelines.
Yet, this is an entirely different matter when it comes to kids and teens. According to Gahl, "We don't suggest a vegan diet for children or adolescents, as it's challenging to meet their nutritional requirements." While alternative options exist, parents must be knowledgeable about nutrition to make up for missing nutrients. If not, children would have to consume a considerable amount of whole grains, nuts, and seeds. "They must enjoy it," Gahl adds.
Rückert-John, a sociology professor, studies students' milk consumption patterns at her university. While more students are ignoring milk, the situation gets complex as they dwell deeper into the subject, she says. Soy or peanut milk's environmental impact doesn't always surpass that of cow's milk. Soybean production in Brazil might have led to rainforest clearance, and peanuts require excessive water use.
"Consumers are burdened with too much information," points out the professor. "The numerous debates over what we should eat and where our food comes from are mind-bogglingly complex. It's impossible to weigh and analyze everything." For people who prefer organic shopping, it's both about ethics and finances.
There are several resources available concerning milk:- DGE Recommendations 2024 on Milk and Milk Products (German Federal Statistics Office)- Federal Information Center for Agriculture on Milk Cow Lifespan- Federal Information Center for Agriculture on Milk Cow and Calf Separation- Dairy Industry Association on Milk Production in Cows- DGE on Nutritional Recommendations for Milk- BLE 2022 on "This is How Milk is Lived"- BLE 2023 on Lowest Per Capita Milk Consumption since 1991- Position of the German Dairy Industry- Nutrition Strategy of the German Federal Government- BLE 2023 on Milk Balance 2023- Nutrition Report 2023 from the German Dairy Industry Association- 2023 GfK on Flexitarians and Milk Reducers
