Bubbly beverage - Making a comeback: Lambrusco beyond its sweet brandy image.
Lambrusco often features a headache-inducing sweetness, typically enjoyed over ice cubes and paired with an orange slice. Yet, it doesn't have to be this way - it can encapsulate a fruity, yet dry character. Its vibrant, deep red or even violet color is characteristic of Lambrusco, attributed to the grape variety from which it's derived. The Lambrusco registry managed by the Federal Research Institute for Cultivated Plants showcases 18 different Lambrusco grape varieties, such as Lambrusco Salamini and Lambrusco Maestri.
Its production primarily occurs around cities like Modena, Parma, and Reggio Emilia. Pure Lambrusco falls into this category, where it's fermented as a still wine before yeast is added to trigger more fermentation and ultimate bubbles. Occasionally, they're sweetened with around 40-50 grams of sugar per liter, resulting in substantial export quantities.
Unveiling the Dry Side of Lambrusco
However, more intriguing Lambrusco wines manifest in their dry form. These wines boast up to 15 grams of residual sugar per liter. For instance, the Colli di Parma Lambrusco by Lamoretti Winery. Dedicated to Lambrusco since 2013, winemaker Giovanni Lamoretti introduced vineyards and launched the first Lambrusco in 2018. Remarkably deep red, brimming with fruity notes, the wine does not lack structure. Alternatively, the Lambrusco di Sorbara DOP from Cantina della Volta offers 5 grams per liter of residual sugar. Distinctive is the CO2 it produces not through fermentation in a pressure tank, but during its secondary fermentation in a bottle. This method replicates the Champagne approach, where the Lambrusco lies with its own yeast for an entire year. Hence, the outcome is fresh, fruity, featuring a refined perlage much like Champagne.
Emilia-Romagna has four designated origin wine districts for Lambrusco: the two leading ones being Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, accompanied by Salamino di Santa Croce. A fourth, Lambrusco Mantovano, is situated in Lombardy.
Where to Enjoy Lambrusco
Lambrusco wines from Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco Grasparossa differ in style. Di Sorbara's wines are distinguished by their subtle floral scent, featuring notes of orange blossom, cherries, and violets. Meanwhile, Di Grasparossa's wines carry a rich, full-bodied, and dry quality, accompanied by aromas of blackberries and black currants.
The Italians predominantly consume Lambrusco with food rather than as an aperitif. The freshness it delivers complements the hearty specialties rooted in the Emilia-Romagna region, such as Parmesan and Parmigiano Reggiano.
In conclusion, while Lambrusco may be known for its headache-inducing sweetness, there's a world of difference in its unappreciated, dry versions - making it worth overcoming preconceived notions and giving it a try.
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In Modena, known for its Lambrusco production, winemakers occasionally produce sparkling wine using the Champagne approach, allowing the Lambrusco to lie with its own yeast for an entire year. Additionally, the Lambrusco di Sorbara DOP from Cantina della Volta, located in Parma, uses this method, resulting in a fresh, fruity wine with a refined perlage similar to Champagne.
