Avoiding cow's milk can fail to address health and environmental concerns.
The reduction in milk consumption and the turn to plant-based alternatives are often justified by sustainability and animal welfare concerns. However, experts warn that this shift might lead to health issues, particularly in children. While some people have given up milk to address climate problems, it may not be as straightforward as one might think.
The catchphrase "milk making tired men lively" from the post-war era in West Germany seems outdated now. Alongside flexitarians who consciously eat less meat, there is a growing number of Germans who, for ethical reasons, drink less cow's milk.
For the Society for Consumer Research, consumers who drink less cow's milk are no longer a marginal group. Food is no longer just about nutrients, which has contributed to cow's milk's image problems. Is cow's milk truly outdated, and what could be the reasons for this decision against a staple food? Questions about the Day of Milk on June 1st.
Statistics show that drinking milk in Germany is on a consistent decline. According to data from the Federal Institute for Agriculture and Nutrition, the per capita consumption in 2023 was approximately 46 kilograms, down from around 60 kilograms in the 1990s. Germany is the EU's largest producer of cow's milk, and the dairy industry is a significant part of the German agricultural sector.
Societal concerns and political pressure
Professor Jana Rückert-John of the University of Fulda says, "We are moving very strongly in the direction of non-animal-based basic foods in Germany." Animal products, including cow's milk, are under intense scrutiny from various angles. Animal welfare, the carbon footprint, sustainability, and climate protection are some of the concerns people have about these products.
Researchers have observed a significant decrease in meat and milk consumption, with milk consumption and meat consumption being closely related. Rückert-John differentiates between the two, saying that "for meat, animals are slaughtered." Topics such as traditional animal husbandry and high-performance dairy cows, who spend most of their lives in confinement, are concerning even non-vegans.
According to a recent nutrition report, 80% of people consider how an animal lives when making food choices. More West Germans consider this than East Germans, and more women than men. Almost half of the respondents have already consumed vegetarian or vegan alternatives, most often plant-based alternatives for milk and dairy products.
Rückert-John doesn't believe this is an underground cultural conflict about milk. "The debate is also a phenomenon of a wealthy society," she comments. Germany has a wide range of plant-based alternatives to milk and milk products, making it easier for people to switch.
"Nutrition has become much more than just a matter of health," says the latest nutrition strategy of the German government. It's about enjoyment, connection, tradition, culture, and togetherness. Nutrition is often also seen as a way of expressing a certain lifestyle or as a means of self-actualization.
Milk products that are further processed, like cheese, are less affected by the decline. "Milk products move away from the original product. It's like seeing a whole animal in the oven or fish sticks and chicken nuggets," says Rückert-John. The more we process food, the less we see the problems associated with it. While Germany is not banning milk, surveys from the Consumer Research Society show that 93% of households still purchase H- or fresh milk, but this has slightly decreased, with people consuming just two portions per day.
The German Nutrition Society (DGE) has lowered its recommendations for milk and dairy products from three to two portions daily. "This corresponds to one glass of milk and one yogurt per day - or one yogurt and a slice of cheese," explains DGE spokeswoman Antje Gahl. Why the portion has been reduced? "In the new recommendations, we have not only considered health but also environmental impacts such as greenhouse gas emissions and land use such as pasture areas," she adds. Consumption habits have also been taken into account.
Decreased milk consumption is not a cause for alarm, says Gahl. "Nutritional habits are changing. In the past few years, there has been a shift toward more vegetarian or vegan diets," she explains. Each generation has their unique eating habits. The post-war period focused on filling up, later came the fitness and slimming wave. Today, it's not just about meeting needs. Skepticism about milk is not a new phenomenon; discussions about its health benefits and tolerance have always been prevalent, according to the nutrition expert.
Plant-based beverages don't match cow's milk in terms of nutritional value, according to a DGE expert. They contain high levels of protein, calcium, vitamin B2 and B12, vitamin A, iron, magnesium, zinc, and iodine. However, the calcium content alone is not enough, which is why these drinks are fortified with nutrients. Nutrition experts consider plant-based drinks as a substitute for cow's milk rather than a replacement. There's not much extremism involved. Gahl states, "Milk and dairy products are healthy for adults in the proper amounts, but they're not always necessary."
The situation for children and adolescents is different. Gahl advises against a vegan diet for youngsters since it is challenging to meet their nutritional needs. "However, this can also be achieved with substitute items, but parents must be well-versed in nutrition." Alternatives include consuming plenty of whole grains, legumes, nuts, and seeds. "And they must like it."
Plant-based alternatives may have similar environmental effects
Rückert-John, a sociologist at her university, is interested in how students perceive milk in their daily lives. The trend toward abstinence is significant, but the issue becomes more intricate as more young people engage with it. "The ecological footprint of soy and almond variants is not always more favorable than that of cow's milk," she says. In Brazil, rainforests could have been cleared for soy fields, and too much water may have been consumed for almonds.
"There is an overload and overburdening of consumers," notes the professor. "The countless discussions about what we should eat and where our food comes from are extremely complex. It's impossible to weigh and consider everything." Ultimately, a clear conscience might only be achieved through a purchase at an organic store. But this isn't just a matter of personal belief; money plays a role as well.
