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Featured Style: Rosalía Showcases Straitjackets as the Trend of the Week

Spanish pop star Rosalía donned a romantic summer dress accompanied by an unbuckled straitjacket in NYC yesterday. However, can this 18th-century medical device ever be genuinely recontextualized?

PARIS, FRANCE - APRIL 23: Actress Emily Blunt attends the "The Fall Guy" Premiere at UGC Normandie ...
PARIS, FRANCE - APRIL 23: Actress Emily Blunt attends the "The Fall Guy" Premiere at UGC Normandie on April 23, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/Getty Images)

Spring-hued coat decorated with a collection of black buckles and bands lined Rosalia's physique; a possible vintage biker jacket? Not so fast! Instead of protecting her from unruly weather or high-speed biking quests, her piece proved more medicinal in nature. The elongated sleeves were henched up, cinched together, and anchored with yet another buckle, thus leaving her fingers to push through the seams - making her coat appear as a garment of confinement.

The peculiar designer item originally debuted in the 1700s in hospitals and asylums, where it was used as a physical restrictor of patients. Despite the noble intention of safeguarding minds and bodies, some doctors once regarded the tight-fitting equipment inhumane during the mid-1900s, urging more compassionate methods. By the revolutionary sixties, anti-psychiatry attitudes gained lots of traction. This pro-psychotropic movement targeted controversial practices such as confinement jackets and electroshock therapy (ECT), all while challenging the general definition of mental health illness. By the time the '70s flick "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest" hit the silver screen, straitjackets became a cultural symbol of deranged psychiatry practices. The discontinuation of such devices in New York's mental health facilities occurred in 1994 when 18 fatalities from restraint or prolonged isolation had factored within that 4-year period.

Even so, Rosalia isn't the first to redefine the straitjacket's signature look. By 2019, Gucci selected a handful of models who sported white, belted jumpsuits on the Milan Fashion Week catwalk. They stood motionless on a green conveyer belt and appeared bound by these tight one-color attire pieces. One particular model, Ayesha Tan-Jones, made their statement loud and clear via their raised fists that exhibited the written "Mental health is not fashion."

Tan-Jones shared a statement on Instagram following the event, insinuating the harsh history of thrusterime in psychiatry.

"Straitjackets symbolize a horrible time in medicine when mental health was misunderstood, and people's rights were deprived while they were mistreated in establishments," they mentioned. Tan-Jones also thanked her fellow striding models for encouraging her in striking a silent protest against the straightjacket modeled ensembles.

Gucci responded to the critics and explained that the starched objects denoted a power struggle within fashion, subsequently stripping away a person's self-expression. The brand added that the confinement-style jumpsuits would not be sold.

The Spanish musician paired a romantic prairie dress with an unbuckled straitjacket.

While Rosalia's piece has garnered limited attention, she's known for experimenting with style, blending the traditional flamenco vibe with on-trend biker chic. Lately, other outfits, such as Julia Fox in 2021, have caused a turmoil in fashion due to various outlandish style decisions - representing dresses crafted from hangers, trash bags, and plastic wrap. In September '21, Ye's wife, Bianca Censori, roamed the streets of Florence, Italy, wearing a purple pillowcase.

Remember when some luxury fashion houses found themselves in a pickle? John Galliano, the one-time superstar designer, fell from his throne and endured public shaming over claims of hate speech and dismissal from Dior in '11. Remarkably, he bounced back with an iconic gig at Maison Margiela and a new film. And Dolce & Gabbana, also on the receiving end of intense scrutiny for ridiculing Asian consumers in 2018, rallied to maintain a high-profile celebrity contingent. The brand patched up their image with an offered apology, stating that their controversial promotional events and clips were formed "with love and passion for China and all the people who adore Dolce & Gabbana."

So is Rosalia employing her restraint-styled outerwear to send a social conservationist message, or is she simply pushing the edge for a grabby snapshot? Without knowing her intentions, we will keep an eye out for Rosalia makes her sharp style or social impact. But, in 2024, fashion moves bolder lines between controversy and creativity.

The close connection between fashion and mental health carries such a potent past; now, Rosalia is attempting to transform the idea to boggle minds. The Spanish singer-songwriter appeared at the Halloween 4 event, dressed in a straitjacket-style outfit that stunned the fans. Oh, and what better that she teamed it with spooky makeup. Though her choice of personal attire may appear more festive than glamorous, Rosalia is a fashion icon who's committed to redefining the norms of fashion and challenging conventional thinking.

At the Gucci show in 2019, Ayesha Tan-Jones protested the label's straitjacket-inspired clothes by writing

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Source: edition.cnn.com

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