Olympic champion Carissa Moore confronts 'big, intense, frightening' Teahupo'o before departing from surfing.
A newly graduated high-schooler, Carissa Moore, had minimal experience - lacking the championships she holds today. Yet, she was full of excitement and rush. But soon, Teahupo'o lived up to its infamous reputation of being one of the most perilous waves on the globe.
"I was out of my depth," Moore remembered, having surfed the dangerous break many times throughout her career. "I had never encountered a wave like that before and was like, really afraid."
Teahupo'o closely resembles a postcard from French Polynesia, where surfers are enclosed within a perfect barrel, slicing their way across its surface, with a flurry of frothy waves rising behind them. Yet, lurking beneath this picturesque scene is the wave's hidden danger: anyone who dares to conquer Teahupo'o risks being sucked into its towering, crashing wall of water and cast upon the dangerous reef at its base.
"It's those waves that frighten you the most which usually turn out to be the best," recalled Moore, lecturing CNN Sport. "It's an odd sensation - your body and mind are warning you off, but you must persuade yourself that these waves are fantastic, and you have to venture out.
"It's not a standard response. The consequences can be really serious. If you wipeout, it could be catastrophic. Injuries and awful wipeouts have resulted from this wave. You have to say," Okay, I could also have the ride of my life and the rush of a lifetime out there.”
This year, the site of Teahupo'o will play host to the Olympic surfing event, while also the site of this week's Tahiti Pro, where Moore has been granted a wild card entry to get ready for the Paris 2024 Olympics.
The Hawaiian surfer is at a critical point in her career. At the beginning of the year, she declared her intention to move away from competitions, only participating in the Tahiti Pro and Olympics.
Moore emphasized that she's not retiring but is instead describing this period as "a change and an evolution." That entails shifting her attention to endeavors beyond the confines of the water - dedicating time to her foundation, publishing a book, and finalizing a film with Red Bull about her life and surfing journey.
At the moment, however, the spotlight is back on surfing. While she might not possess the sharpened instincts that come from participating in many events this season, it's difficult to envision the five-time world champion losing her competitive drive during the hiatus.
Additionally, Moore managed a training trip to Tahiti a few weeks prior, a reminder of Teahupo'o's unforgiving power.
"The waves are large and intense and frightening," Moore confessed. "I don't believe you can ever feel entirely at ease at a wave like Teahupo'o. But I believe that the more you expose yourself to uneasy scenarios, the more comfortable you'll feel.
"That's how I've always operated. I'm a calculated risk-taker. The more time I spend there, the better I'll feel. And I trust that when the moment comes in a heat, I'll know I can go."
Surfing made its Olympic introduction in Japan just three years ago, making Moore the sport's very first female Olympic champion. She'll undoubtedly want to defend her title and commence her extended sabbatical from competitions by winning gold.
"I'm so grateful I even managed to win one gold medal," said the 31-year-old. "In surfing, it's pretty incredible when everything comes together in a single event with all the ever-changing elements.
"I know asking for two gold medals might be too much, so I'll do my best. There's not much I can do now, but I genuinely want to make a difference in the community positively.
"I'm brainstorming a plan to construct a soccer field for the children in the village of around 1,500 people. Those ideas are just starting to evolve."
Concerns about environmental impacts surrounding the staging of the Olympics in Tahiti, 10,000 miles from Paris, have already tarnished the event.
The shallow coral reef, which generates the grandest and most significant wave, was harmed by a barge last year during the fabrication of a 9-ton aluminum platform - a measure deemed essential for judging and broadcasting the competition.
This sparked outrage from the International Surfing Association, as well as other members of the surfing community; for World Surf League events in Tahiti, wooden constructions installed and removed.
"I'm an advocate for the environment and the reefs and the oceans - they're our playing field - and I know we must strive to preserve them," says Moore. "There's only so much we can conduct now, but I absolutely want to contribute to the local community in a positive manner and leave something for future generations."
Encouraging the youth motivates Moore deeply. She established her foundation, Moore Aloha, during a period of personal strife on tour, feeling devoid of purpose and drive. The foundation utilizes surfing as a means to uplift adolescent girls in their journey through mental health, well-being, and womanhood.
"I observed that there were limited options for girls, particularly in the ocean during my upbringing," Moore recounts. "It initially commenced as a surf mentorship involving the aloha spirit and spread out to educational sessions regarding mental health, well-being, and womanhood, which happens to be the cornerstone of our organization to date."
The prevalence of depression, anxiety, and other forms of stress affects us considerably, and surfing offers a break from it. "The ocean allows an escape from the daily humdrum," Moore mentions. "When you're in the ocean, there is no room for your phone; instead, it offers solace and lets you relax and connect with nature and the present moment."
Uncovering herself to know her goals in life played a significant role in Moore's choice to leave surfing behind. Her decision to stop competing had been a year in the making.
"I haven't entirely abandoned the opportunity to compete professionally. However," Moore shares, "it's essential for me to have some space to decipher my plans, whether that means returning to the competition circuit, investing more time into Moore Aloha, engaging in film projects, or merely free surfing when it suits me best."
One of the greatest surfers of all time has the opportunity to forge her course in life, really living by her terms.
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Source: edition.cnn.com
